• Rezultati Niso Bili Najdeni

Knitted Fabrics from Bamboo Viscose

N/A
N/A
Protected

Academic year: 2022

Share "Knitted Fabrics from Bamboo Viscose"

Copied!
7
0
0

Celotno besedilo

(1)

"MFOLB1BWLPƉVEFO"OßF,VQMKFOJL

6OJWFSTJUZPG-KVCMKBOB'BDVMUZPG/BUVSBM4DJFODFTBOE&OHJOFFSJOH%FQBSUNFOUPG5FYUJMFT

Knitted Fabrics from Bamboo Viscose

Preliminary Communication

3FDFJWFEJanuary 2012 r"DDFQUFEFebruary 2012

Corresponding author:

dr. Alenka Pavko Čuden QIPOF FNBJMBMFOLBDVEFO!OUGVOJMKTJ

"CTUSBDU

*OUIFMBTUEFDBEFUIFVTFPGñCSFTGSPNCBNCPPIBTCFFOPOUIFJODSFBTFOBUVSBMCBNCPPñCSFTBOESF HFOFSBUFEDFMMVMPTFñCSFTCBNCPPWJTDPTFJOQBSUJDVMBS5IFBEWBOUBHFPGUIFCBNCPPQMBOUMJFTJOJUTGBTU BOEEFOTFHSPXUIBOEUIFQPTTJCJMJUZPGPSHBOJDQSPEVDUJPO#BNCPPWJTDPTFJTPGUFOVTFEJOUIFQSPEVD UJPOPGLOJUXFBSIPNFUFYUJMFTBOEBDDFTTPSJFT5FYUJMFQSPEVDUTNBEFPGCBNCPPBSFDIBSBDUFSJTFECZIJHI NPJTUVSFBCTPSQUJPOQMFBTBOUIBOEQPSPTJUZBOEBJSQFSNFBCJMJUZBTXFMMBTCZUIFBOUJCBDUFSJBMFíFDUBOUJ GVOHBMSFTJTUBODFBOE67QSPUFDUJPOQSPQFSUJFT*OUIFQSFMJNJOBSZSFTFBSDILOJUUFEGBCSJDTNBEFGSPNCBN CPPWJTDPTFBOECMFOETXJUIPUIFSñCSFT PSHBOJDDPUUPOFMBTUBOFQPMZFTUFSJOWBSJPVTTUSVDUVSFTXFSFBOBM ZTFE5IFJSTUSVDUVSBMQBSBNFUFSTBJSQFSNFBCJMJUZBOEBCTPSQUJPOQSPQFSUJFTXFSFTUVEJFEBOEDPNQBSFE ,FZXPSETCBNCPPCBNCPPWJTDPTFLOJUUJOHBJSQFSNFBCJMJUZNPJTUVSFBCTPSQUJPO

*OUSPEVDUJPO

1.1 Bamboo: sustainable raw material

*OEVTUSJBMSBXNBUFSJBMTTVDIBTNFUBMQMBTUJDTHMBTT BSUJĕDJBMMFBUIFSBOEGBCSJDTBSFBQQMJFEDPOUJOVPVT- MZJOBMMDMBTTFTPGQSPEVDUTCSFBLJOHUIFQPTTJCJMJ- UZUIBUBDFSUBJONBUFSJBMDPVMEEPNJOBUFUIFNBSLFU BOEEFTJHOGBTIJPOćPVHIUIFBQQMJDBUJPOPGTVDIB WBSJFUZPGNBUFSJBMTFOSJDIFTPVSMJGFJUDBVTFTQSPC- MFNTUPPVSOBUVSBMFOWJSPONFOU<>*O$IJOBCBN- boo has been a rich natural resource, used in agri- DVMUVSF QBQFS BOE GVSOJUVSF JOEVTUSZ BSDIJUFDUVSF BOE IBOEJDSBę GPS UIPVTBOET PG ZFBST *U IBT BMTP CFFOLOPXOBTUIFiHSFFOHPMEPSFw.PSFPWFSCBN- CPPJTBUSBEJUJPOBM$IJOFTFDVMUVSBMFMFNFOUBOEB TZNCPMPG$IJOFTFEFTJHOćFBEWBOUBHFTPGCBN- boo products are easy processing, characteristic tex- UVSFEFOTFTUSVDUVSFVOJGPSNOBUVSBMDPMPVSQPTTJ- CJMJUZPGCMFBDIJOHBOEEZFJOHMPXDPTUEVSBCJMJUZ FOWJSPONFOUBM GSJFOEMJOFTT BOE HPPE QFSGPSNBODF QSPQFSUJFT0OMZJOUIFMBTUEFDBEFCBNCPPIBTBMTP CFFOVTFEGPSUIFQSPEVDUJPOPGUFYUJMFĕCSFT<>

#BNCPPJTBGBTUHSPXJOHQMBOU*UOFFEToZFBST

GPSHSPXUIJUEPFTOPUPDDVQZMBSHFBSFBTPGDVMUJ- WBUFEMBOEBOEJUEPFTOPUSFRVJSFJSSJHBUJPO'VS- UIFSNPSF JU SFEVDFT UIF GPSNBUJPO PG HSFFOIPVTF HBTFT BCTPSCT ĕWF UJNFT NPSF $0 than an equi- WBMFOUTUBOEPGUSFFTBOEQSPEVDFTCZNPSFPY- ZHFO*UDBOHSPXJOWFSZIBSEDPOEJUJPOTXJUIPVU BOZOFFEPGQFTUJDJEFTBOEIFSCJDJEFT<>#BN- CPPSPPUTTUBCJMJTFUIFTPJMBOEJOIJCJUFSPTJPO

1.2 Bamboo: textile raw material

*O$IJOBCBNCPPJTQMBOUFEPONJMMJPOIFDUBSFTPG MBOEBOEUIFCBNCPPQMBOUBUJPOJTTUJMMHSPXJOHćF BOOVBMCBNCPPĕCSFQSPEVDUJPOBMSFBEZBNPVOUUP OFBSMZUPOTBOEJTTUJMMJODSFBTJOH<>

ćFSFBSFUXPNBJOUZQFTPGUFYUJMFĕCSFTGSPNCBN- CPP/BUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTBSFQSPEVDFEGSPNUIF CBNCPP QMBOU XJUI QIZTJDBM BOE DIFNJDBM USFBU- NFOUTćFZIBWFBSPVOEDSPTTTFDUJPOBOEBTNBMM SPVOE MVNFO 8JUI SFTQFDU UP UIFJS TUSVDUVSF UIFZ

(2)

BSF TJNJMBS UP SBNJF ĕCSFT IPXFWFS UIFZ BSF ĕ OFS BOE TIPSUFS *OEJWJEVBM OBUVSBM CBNCPP ĕCSFT BSFWFSZTIPSUJFoNNXJUIUIFBWFSBHFPG NN o JOEJWJEVBM ĕCSFT BSF QBDLFE JOUP CVO- EMFT ćFZ IBWF B SPVHI TVSGBDF ćF DSZTUBMMJOF TUSVDUVSFPGOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTJTEJČFSFOUGSPN UIF ĘBY DPUUPO BOE SBNJF ĕCSF TUSVDUVSF ćF EF- HSFFPGDSZTUBMMJOJUZPGOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTJTMPX- FSUIBOUIBUPGDPUUPOBOEĘBYBOEJTTJNJMBSUPKVUF ćFOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFJTDPNQPTFEPGDFM- MVMPTFMJHOJOBOEBQQSPYJNBUFMZIFNJDFM- MVMPTF"NPOHUIFTJHOJĕDBOUDPNQPOFOUTPGOBUVSBM CBNCPP ĕCSFT UIFSF JT BMTP EJNFUIPYZQCFO- [PRVJOPOF XIJDI JT SFTQPOTJCMF GPS UIF BOUJCBDUF- SJBMQSPQFSUJFTPGĕCSFTBOEUIFQSPUFJOEFOESPDJO XIJDIDPOUSJCVUFTUPBIJHISFTJTUBODFBHBJOTUGVOHJ

<>

ćF SFHFOFSBUFE CBNCPP ĕCSF JF CBNCPP WJT- DPTFJTQSPEVDFEGSPNCBNCPPQVMQXJUIBDIFN- JDBM QSPDFTT TJNJMBS UP UIF NBOVGBDUVSF PG WJTDPTF ĕCSFT CZ XFU TQJOOJOH 8JUI UIF IZESPMZTJT BMLB- MJTBUJPO BOE UIF NVMUJQIBTF CMFBDIJOH PG UIF JO- OFSQBSUPGCBNCPPUSVOLBOEMFBWFTUIFDFMMVMPTF QVMQ JT NBEF "ęFS UIF BHFJOH BOE YBOUIPHFOB- UJPOBWJTDPVTNBTTGPSGPSNJOHSFHFOFSBUFEDFMMV- MPTF ĕCSFT JF WJTDPTF ĕCSFT JT QSPEVDFE GSPN JU 7JTDPTFGPSNFEGSPNCBNCPPDFMMVMPTFJTVTFEGPS UIFQSPEVDUTXIJDIBSFDIBSBDUFSJTFECZBOVNCFS PGHPPEGFBUVSFTFHDPNGPSUTPęBOETJMLZIBOE OJDFESBQFIJHIBCTPSCFODZBOECSFBUIBCJMJUZćF products are also supposed to be durable and re- TJTUBOUUPBCSBTJPO%VFUPUIFOVNFSPVTQSPNPUFE DPNGPSUBOEQFSGPSNBODFQSPQFSUJFTBOEMPXQSJDF UIFEJWFSTJUZPGUIFVTFPGCBNCPPWJTDPTFĕCSFTJT JOGVMMTXJOHoUIFZBSFGPVOEJOTQPSUTXFBSTVN- NFSDMPUIJOHHBSNFOUTGPSDIJMESFOBOEFYQFDUBOU NPUIFSTTPDLTVOEFSXFBSCFELJUDIFOBOECBUI- SPPNMJOFOFUD<>7JTDPTFĕCSFTGSPNCBNCPP DFMMVMPTF BSF DPNNFSDJBMMZ TVDDFTTGVM EVF UP UIF TVQQMZ VOEFS UIF OBNF PG iCBNCPPw PS iCBNCPP ĕCSFTwBOEUIFPSHBOJDJNQSFTTJPOUIFZHJWFćFJS DPNGPSUBOEQFSGPSNBODFQSPQFSUJFTIBWFCFFOSF- corded in the literature, yet not all have been prov- FOFHBOUJNJDSPCJBMQSPQFSUJFT

1.3 Properties of bamboo viscose products

ćF NBOVGBDUVSFST PG CBNCPP UFYUJMFT QSPNPUF their products with good properties which include:

–OBUVSBMBOUJNJDSPCJBMQSPQFSUJFT

–OBUVSBMBCJMJUZUPQSPUFDUBHBJOTU67SBEJBUJPO

–pleasant hand,

–TNPPUITVSGBDFUIBUEPFTOPUJSSJUBUFUIFTLJO –OBUVSBMMVTUSFTJNJMBSUPTJML XJUIPVUNFSDFSJTB-

UJPO

–natural ability to prevent odour,

–high water absorption and quick drying due to UIFQPSPVTTVSGBDFPGĕCSFT

–HPPE UIFSNPSFHVMBUPSZ DBQBDJUZ CFUUFS UIBO DPUUPOBOEIFNQ

–high durability, –low shrinking,

–XSJOLMFSFTJTUBODF CFUUFSUIBODPUUPO –CJPEFHSBEBCJMJUZ<>

#FDBVTF PG UIF QSPNPUJPO PG UIFJS HPPE QSPQFS- UJFTCBNCPPQSPEVDUTIBWFFTUBCMJTIFEUIFNTFMWFT JOUIFGBTIJPOJOEVTUSZTQPSUTQBSBNFEJDTVTFFUD

%VF UP JOBEFRVBUF MBCFMMJOH UIF QSPEVDUT NBEF GSPNOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTBSFPęFODPOGVTFEXJUI UIF QSPEVDUT NBEF GSPN SFHFOFSBUFE CBNCPP ĕ- CSFTJFCBNCPPWJTDPTFXIJDIJTNBONBEFćF QSPEVDUTNBEFGSPNCBNCPPWJTDPTFEPNJOBUFUIF NBSLFU EVF UP UIFJS TJHOJĕDBOUMZ MPXFS QSJDF BOE QSPDFTTJOHDPOEJUJPOT

ćFIBOEPGOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTJTTJNJMBSUPUIF IBOE PG SBNJF IFNQ BOE ĘBY XIJMF CBNCPP WJT- DPTFIBTBWFSZTPęIBOE#BNCPPWJTDPTFTISJOLT considerably during laundering, whereas natural CBNCPPĕCSFTEPOPU3FTFBSDIIBTTIPXOUIBUUIF CSFBLJOH TUSFOHUI BOE FMPOHBUJPO PG CBNCPP WJT- DPTF JT MPXFS UIBO GPS DPOWFOUJPOBM WJTDPTF XIJMF UIF EFHSFF PG DSZTUBMMJOJUZ JT DPNQBSBCMF /BUVSBM CBNCPP ĕCSFT BSF TUSPOHFS UIBO CBNCPP WJTDPTF

<>ćFNPJTUVSFBCTPSQUJPOBOENPJTUVSFUSBOT- QPSUPGOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTJTHSFBUFSUIBOUIBUPG CBNCPPWJTDPTFEVFUPUIFJSEJČFSFOUNPSQIPMPH- JDBM TUSVDUVSF /BUVSBM CBNCPP ĕCSFT IBWF NBOZ HSPPWFTDSBDLTBOEHBQTPOUIFTVSGBDFUIBUBČFDU UIFDBQJMMBSZFČFDU<o>ćFBOUJCBDUFSJBMQSPQFS- UJFTPGOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTBSFTJNJMBSUPUIFBOUJ- CBDUFSJBMQSPQFSUJFTPGĘBYBOESBNJF#BNCPPWJT- DPTF JT OPU LOPXO GPS JUT BOUJCBDUFSJBM QSPQFSUJFT

< > "OUJCBDUFSJBM BOE 67 QSPUFDUJPO QSPQFS- UJFTBOEOBUVSBMBCJMJUZUPQSFWFOUPEPVSTBSFNVDI CFUUFSJOUIFDBTFPGOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTUIBOGPS CBNCPP WJTDPTF BT UIF HPPE OBUVSBM DIBSBDUFSJT- UJDTPGCBNCPPEJNJOJTIEVSJOHUIFDIFNJDBMQSP- DFTTJOHUPCBNCPPWJTDPTF<>ćF61'PGOBUV- SBMCBNCPPĕCSFTJTBOEJTHSFBUFSUIBOUIF61' PGSBNJFXIJDIJT<>

(3)

1.4 Labelling of bamboo textiles

ćFFYQFSUTGSPNUIF5FDIOJDBM6OJWFSTJUZPGŒPE[

'BDVMUZPG.BUFSJBM5FDIOPMPHJFTBOE5FYUJMF%FTJHO JOWFTUJHBUFEXIJDIĕCSFTOBUVSBMCBNCPPPSCBN- boo viscose, are incorporated into textile products MBCFMMFE XJUI UBHT RVPUJOH iCBNCPP ĕCSFTw iCBN- CPPwiCBNCPPwiPSHBOJDCBNCPPĕCSFTwiCJP CBNCPPĕCSFTwFUD#ZNFBOTPGEJČFSFOUNFUIPET PGJEFOUJĕDBUJPOJUXBTFTUBCMJTIFEUIBUNPTUQSPE- VDUTXFSFNBEFGSPNCBNCPPWJTDPTF<>

8IFOUFYUJMFQSPEVDUTDPOUBJOOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕ- CSFT UIFTF ĕCSFT TIPVME CF DBMMFE CZ UIF HFOFSJD HFOVTOBNFiCBNCPPĕCSFTwPSiOBUVSBMCBNCPP ĕCSFTwJOMJOFXJUIUIFOBNFVOEFSUIFTFSJBMOVN- CFSJO"OOFY*PGUIF3FHVMBUJPOPOĕCSFDPNQP- TJUJPOBOEUFYUJMFOBNFT<>

When textile products contain viscose in which UIF JOQVU SBX NBUFSJBM JT CBNCPP QVMQ UIF ĕCSFT TIPVMECFOBNFECZUIFHFOFSJD HFOVTOBNFiWJT- DPTFw XIJDI DBO CF GPMMPXFE JO QBSFOUIFTFT CZ UIFTPVSDFNBUFSJBMMJLFiWJTDPTF GSPNCBNCPPDFM- MVMPTFw PS iWJTDPTF GSPN CBNCPPw PS iWJTDPTF CBNCPPw BDDPSEJOH UP UIF OBNF VOEFS UIF TFSJ- BMOVNCFSJO"OOFY*PGUIF3FHVMBUJPOPOĕCSF DPNQPTJUJPOBOEUFYUJMFOBNFT<>

1.5 Knitted fabrics from natural bamboo fibres and bamboo viscose

8FęLOJUUFEGBCSJDTBSFTUSFUDIBCMFBOEFMBTUJDĘBU textile structures which are characterised by po- SPTJUZ BOE HPPE BCTPSCBODF BOE USBOTGFS QSPQFS- UJFTUIFSFGPSFUIFZBSFDPNGPSUBCMFBOEQMFBTBOUUP XFBSćFZBSFVTFEJOUIFQSPEVDUJPOPGVOEFSXFBS sleepwear, sportswear and casual wear, bedding in- UFSJPS UFYUJMFT BOE BDDFTTPSJFT ćFJS QFSGPSNBODF QSPQFSUJFT EFQFOE PO UIF NBUFSJBM DPNQPTJUJPO yarn structure, knitted structure type and knitted TUSVDUVSFQBSBNFUFST

*OUIFMBTUEFDBEFUIFVTFPGCBNCPPĕCSFTGPSUIF QSPEVDUJPO PG LOJUUFE GBCSJDT IBT JODSFBTFE 1VSF CBNCPPĕCSFTPSCMFOETBSFTVJUBCMFGPSUIFNBOV- GBDUVSFPGLOJUUFEGBCSJDTGPSVOEFSXFBSPVUFSXFBS IPNFUFYUJMFTFUD/BUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTBSFNBJOMZ VTFEJOCMFOETGPSUIFNBOVGBDUVSFPGLOJUUFEQSPE- VDUTUIFJSTIBSFJTMFTTUIBOEVFUPUIFJSSBUIFS SPVHIIBOE"TBDPOTFRVFODFPGUIFJSHPPEQSPQ- FSUJFTUIFZBSFTVJUBCMFGPSTPDLT<>.PSFPęFO UIBOOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTCBNCPPWJTDPTFJTVTFE GPS UFYUJMFT BOE DMPUIJOH ćF QSPNPUJPO PG HPPE QSPQFSUJFT PG LOJUUFE GBCSJDT BOE LOJUXFBS GSPN

CBNCPPJTPęFONJTMFBEJOHEVFUPUIFJODPOTJTUFOU MBCFMMJOH PG QSPEVDUT GSPN OBUVSBM CBNCPP ĕCSFT BOENBONBEFCBNCPPĕCSFTSFTQFDUJWFMZ

4UBUFPGSFTFBSDI

ćFJODSFBTFEVTFPGCBNCPPGPSUFYUJMFQSPDFTTJOH IBTCPPTUFECBTJDBOEBQQMJFESFTFBSDIPGCBNCPP UFYUJMFT

&SEPNMV / BOE 0[JQFL # IBWF JOWFTUJHBUFE UIF QSPQFSUJFT PG WJTDPTF ĕCSFT BOE SJOHTQVO ZBSOT NBEF GSPN CBNCPP WJTDPTF ćFZ GPVOE UIBU WJT- DPTFĕCSFTBOEZBSOTGSPNCBNCPPWJTDPTFFYIJCJU TJNJMBSQSPQFSUJFTUIBODPOWFOUJPOBMWJTDPTFĕCSFT BOEZBSOTIPXFWFSUIFZBSFNPSFFYQFOTJWF#BN- CPPWJTDPTFZBSOTXJUIMJOFBSEFOTJUZMFTTUIBO UFYEPOPUNFFUBDDFQUBCMFRVBMJUZIFODFUIFVTFPG CMFOETXJUIPUIFSĕCSFTJTSFDPNNFOEFE<>

:BP 8 BOE ;IBOH 8 TUVEJFE UIF QSPDFTTJOH BOE BQQMJDBUJPO PG OBUVSBM CBNCPP ĕCSFT ćFZ GPVOE UIBUUIFNPJTUVSFDPOUFOUJTTJNJMBSUPUIBUPGWJT- DPTFĕCSFTćFEFHSFFPGQPMZNFSJTBUJPOBOEDSZT- UBMMJOJUZPGĕCSFTBSFMPXBTJTUIFXFUTUSFOHUIPG ĕCSFT ćF EFPEPSJTBUJPO QFSGPSNBODF PG B CBN- CPPGBCSJDJTNVDICFUUFSUIBOUIBUPGBDPUUPOGBC- SJDćFZDSJUJDBMMZFWBMVBUFEUIFQSPCMFNTJOWPMWFE JOUIFJOEVTUSJBMQSPEVDUJPOBOEQSPDFTTJOHPGOBU- VSBMCBNCPPĕCSFTćJTQBQFSQSPWJEFTBOFYUFO- TJWFMJTUPGSFGFSFODFTćFTUVEZXBTTVQQPSUFECZ UIF /BUVSBM 4DJFODF 'PVOEBUJPO PG ;IFJKBOH 1SPW- JODF<>ćFUSFBUNFOUTPGOBUVSBMCBNCPPĕCSFT GPSUFYUJMFQSPDFTTJOHBOEVTFXFSFBMTPTUVEJFECZ -JVFUBM<>

$JNJMMJ4/FSHJT#6BOE$BOEBO$TUVEJFEDPN- GPSUQSPQFSUJFTPGTPDLTNBEFGSPNEJČFSFOUĕCSFT NPEBM NJDSPNPEBM CBNCPP TPZCFBO DIJUPTBO DPNQBSFE XJUI DPUUPO BOE WJTDPTF ćF BCTPSQ- UJPO ESZJOH TQFFE BJS QFSNFBCJMJUZ XBUFS WBQPVS QFSNFBCJMJUZ BOE UIFSNBM SFTJTUBODF XFSF NFBT- VSFE ćF TPDLT GSPN CBNCPP BOE TPZCFBO ĕCSFT FYIJCJUFE NBYJNVN UIFSNBM SFTJTUBODF XIJMF UIF DPUUPOTPDLTFYIJCJUFEUIFMPXFTUćFNJDSPNPE- BMBOENPEBMTPDLTTIPXFEUIFIJHIFTUBJSQFSNFB- CJMJUZXIJMFUIFDPUUPOTPDLTTIPXFEUIFMPXFTUćF UIJDLOFTT PG LOJUUFE GBCSJD IBE B TJHOJĕDBOU JOĘV- FODFPOUIFBJSQFSNFBCJMJUZćFTPDLTGSPNCBN- CPP ĕCSFT FYIJCJUFE HPPE XBUFS WBQPVS QFSNFB- CJMJUZ ćF NPTU BCTPSCFOU XFSF UIF DPUUPO TPDLT XIFSFBTUIFCBNCPPTPDLTXFSFUIFMFBTUBCTPSCFOU ćFDPUUPOTPDLTESJFEUIFGBTUFTU<>

(4)

.BKVNEBS".VILPQBEIZBZ4BOE:BEBW3JO- WFTUJHBUFEUIFUIFSNBMQSPQFSUJFTPGLOJUUFEGBCSJDT GSPNDPUUPODPUUPOCMFOETCBNCPPWJTDPTF BOE CBNCPP WJTDPTF *U XBT GPVOE UIBU UIF UIFSNBMDPOEVDUJWJUZEFDSFBTFTXJUIUIFJODSFBTFPG UIFCBNCPPWJTDPTFDPOUFOU*ODPOUSBTUBJSQFSNF- BCJMJUZBOEXBUFSWBQPVSQFSNFBCJMJUZJODSFBTFXJUI UIF CBNCPP WJTDPTF JODSFBTF ćF NBYJNVN IFBU resistance was exhibited by interlock structures, while single structures showed the highest air per- NFBCJMJUZBOEXBUFSWBQPVSQFSNFBCJMJUZ<>

4BSLBS",BOE"QQJEJ4JOWFTUJHBUFEUIFBOUJNJ- DSPCJBMBOE67QSPUFDUJPOQSPQFSUJFTPGBCBNCPP WJTDPTFLOJUUFEGBCSJDćFZGPVOEUIBUUIFVOUSFBU- FECBNCPPWJTDPTFLOJUUFEGBCSJDTIPXTXFBLBOUJ- CBDUFSJBM BOE 67 QSPUFDUJPO QSPQFSUJFT ćFZ BMTP GPVOEUIBUUIPTFQSPQFSUJFTDBOCFTJHOJĕDBOUMZJN- QSPWFECZEZFJOHBOEĕOJTIJOH<>

#JWBJOZUF " BOE .JLVʊJPOJFOF % FYQMPSFE UIF BJSQFSNFBCJMJUZBOEXBUFSWBQPVSQFSNFBCJMJUZPG EPVCMFMBZFSFELOJUUFEGBCSJDTćFZGPVOEUIBUUIF

TUSVDUVSBMDIBSBDUFSJTUJDTPGLOJUUFEGBCSJDTJFMPPQ MFOHUI TUSVDUVSF DPNQBDUOFTT BOE TUSVDUVSF UZQF IBWFBOJNQPSUBOUJOĘVFODFPOUIFBJSQFSNFBCJM- JUZPGBLOJUUFEGBCSJDćFNBUFSJBMDPNQPTJUJPOPG LOJUUFE GBCSJDT IBT UIF NPTU JNQPSUBOU JNQBDU PO UIFXBUFSWBQPVSQFSNFBCJMJUZ<>

%FNJSP[(VO"ÃOBM$BOEÃOBM#5TUVEJFEUIF EJNFOTJPOBMBOEQIZTJDBMQSPQFSUJFTPGLOJUUFEGBC- SJDT NBEF GSPN CMFOET PG NPEBM CBNCPP WJTDPTF BOE DPOWFOUJPOBM WJTDPTF ĕCSFT XJUI DPUUPO ćFZ GPVOE UIBU UIF NBTT QFS VOJU BSFB UIJDLOFTT BOE BJS QFSNFBCJMJUZ PG LOJUUFE GBCSJDT EP OPU EFQFOE POUIFUZQFPGJODPSQPSBUFEĕCSFTćFEJNFOTJPO- BMQSPQFSUJFTPGBMMLOJUUFEGBCSJDTXFSFTJNJMBSćF LOJUUFEGBCSJDTNBEFGSPNBCMFOEPGCBNCPPWJT- DPTFXJUIDPUUPOXFSFMFTTQSPOFUPQJMMJOH<>

Table 1: Knitted fabrics made from bamboo viscose: material composition, knitted structure type and nominal mass per unit area – M

4BNQMF .BUFSJBMDPNQPTJUJPO ,OJUUFETUSVDUVSF .

<HNo>

CBNCPPWJTDPTF single jersey

CBNCPPWJTDPTF

PSHBOJDDPUUPO single jersey

CBNCPPWJTDPTF PSHBOJDDPUUPO

FMBTUBOF IBMGUVDLSFMJFGTUSVDUVSF

CBNCPPWJTDPTF

PSHBOJDDPUUPO ¨SJC

CBNCPPWJTDPTF

PSHBOJDDPUUPO

FMBTUBOF ¨SJC

CBNCPPWJTDPTF

PSHBOJDDPUUPO

QPMZFTUFS loop plush

CBNCPPWJTDPTF PSHBOJDDPUUPO

QPMZFTUFS cut plush

CBNCPPWJTDPTF PSHBOJDDPUUPO

FMBTUBOF fleece

(5)

1SFMJNJOBSZSFTFBSDIPGDPNGPSU QSPQFSUJFTPGLOJUUFEGBCSJDT GSPNCBNCPPWJTDPTF

3.1 Research objective

ćFQVSQPTFPGUIFQSFMJNJOBSZTUVEZXBTUPBOB- MZTFUIFDPNGPSUQSPQFSUJFTPGLOJUUFEGBCSJDTNBEF GSPN CBNCPP WJTDPTF BOE CMFOET XJUI PUIFS ĕ- CSFT PSHBOJDDPUUPOFMBTUBOFQPMZFTUFSJOWBSJPVT LOJUUFETUSVDUVSFTćFEJNFOTJPOBMQSPQFSUJFTPGB LOJUUFE GBCSJD XFSF BOBMZTFE .PSFPWFS UIFJS QFS- NFBCJMJUZBOEXBUFSBCTPSQUJPOQSPQFSUJFTPGLOJU- UFEGBCSJDXFSFUFTUFE

3.2 Preparation of samples

8Fę LOJUUFE GBCSJDT NBEF GSPN CBNCPP WJTDPTF BOECMFOETXJUIPUIFSĕCSFT PSHBOJDDPUUPOFMBT- UBOF QPMZFTUFS XJUI EJČFSFOU NBTT QFS VOJU BSFB BOE JO WBSJPVT LOJUUFE TUSVDUVSFT XFSF FYBNJOFE

$PNNPOMZVTFELOJUUFETUSVDUVSFTGPSVOEFSXFBS sleepwear, outerwear and sportswear were select- FE OBNFMZ TJOHMF KFSTFZ IBMG UVDL TUSVDUVSF XJUI BCTPSCFOU BOE SFMJFG TVSGBDF ¨ BOE ¨ SJC MPPQ QMVTI DVU QMVTI BOE ĘFFDF "MM LOJUUFE TBN- QMFTNBEFGSPNCMFOETDPOUBJOFEUIFTBNFQSPQPS- UJPOPGCBNCPPWJTDPTFJF8IJMFUIFFMBTUBOF DPOUFOUXBTUIFQPMZFTUFSDPOUFOUXBTćF OPNJOBMNBTTQFSVOJUBSFBPGLOJUUFEGBCSJDTXBT HNoHNoBOEHNoćFTBNQMFTXFSF EZOBNJDBMMZ XFU SFMBYFE NBDIJOF XBTIFE BU

¡$BUUIFQSPHSBNNFGPSTQPSUTXFBSBOENBDIJOF ESJFEBUUIFQSPHSBNNFGPSDPUUPOXFBS

ćF TBNQMF MBCFMMJOH NBUFSJBM DPNQPTJUJPO BOE OPNJOBMNBTTQFSVOJUBSFBo.BSFHJWFOJO5BCMF

3.3 Knitted structure parameters

1SJPS UP UIF FYBNJOBUJPO PG DPNGPSU QSPQFSUJFT LOJUUFETUSVDUVSFQBSBNFUFSTXFSFBOBMZTFEOBNF- MZ LOJUUFE GBCSJD UIJDLOFTT o 5 IPSJ[POUBM XBMF EFOTJUZ o %I BOE WFSUJDBM DPVSTF EFOTJUZ o %W .BTTQFSVOJUBSFBo%BOEEFOTJUZDPFďDJFOUo$

XFSFDBMDVMBUFEćFDIBOHFJOUIFGBCSJDUIJDLOFTT oȾ5BęFSSFMBYBUJPOXBTDBMDVMBUFEBTXFMM'SPN UIFDIBOHFPGUIFWFSUJDBMBOEIPSJ[POUBMEFOTJUZPG UIF LOJUUFE GBCSJD EVSJOH SFMBYBUJPO UIF XJEUI SF- laxation shrinkage – ∆W and the length relaxation TISJOLBHFoȾ-XFSFDBMDVMBUFEćFLOJUUFETUSVD- UVSF QBSBNFUFST BOE LOJUUFE GBCSJD EJNFOTJPOBM DIBOHFBęFSUIFSFMBYBUJPOBSFTIPXOJO5BCMF

"CTPSQUJPO XBT FWBMVBUFE XJUI UIF TJOLJOH UFTU NFUIPE"TBNQMFPG¨DNXBTDVUGSPNUIFGBC- SJDBOEQMBDFEPOUPUIFTVSGBDFMBZFSPGXBUFSJOB NMCFBLFSćFXFUUJOHUJNFXBTFTUJNBUFEXJUI BTUPQXBUDIBTUIFUJNFJOUFSWBMCFUXFFOUIFNP- NFOUPGJNNFSTJPOBOEUIFNPNFOUXIFOUIFTBN- QMF TVOL VOEFS UIF XBUFS MFWFM &BDI FYQFSJNFOU XBTQFSGPSNFEBUMFBTUĕWFUJNFTćFTJOLJOHUJNF PG BCPVU TFD JT HFOFSBMMZ DPOTJEFSFE TBUJTGBDUPSZ GPSDFMMVMPTJDNBUFSJBMT<>

"JS QFSNFBCJMJUZ XBT NFBTVSFE BDDPSEJOH UP UIF

*40 &TUBOEBSEPOUIF'9BQQB- SBUVT 5FYUFTU4XJU[FSMBOEBU1BćFNFBTVSF- NFOUSFTVMUTPGBJSQFSNFBCJMJUZBOEBCTPSQUJPOBSF TIPXOJO5BCMF

Table 2: Knitted structure parameters and knitted fabric dimensional changes after relaxation

4BNQMF ∆W

<> Ⱦ-

<> 5

<NN> Ⱦ5

<> %

<DNo>

C

o

o

o o

o

o

o

o o

Table 3: Air permeability – AP on the face and rear side of knitted structure, and wetting time

4BNQMF "1GBDF

<MNoso> "1SFBS

<MNoso> 85

<T>

(6)

0 200 400 600 800 1000 1200 1400

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

air permeability - AP (lm-2s-1)

sample

AP-face AP-rear

Figure 1: Air permeability of knitted samples

0.00 1.00 2.00 3.00 4.00

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

wetting time (s)

sample

Figure 2: Wetting time of knitted samples

%JTDVTTJPOBOEDPODMVTJPOT

ćFNFBTVSFNFOUSFTVMUTTIPXFEUIBUJONPTUDBT- FT UIF UFTUFE LOJUUFE GBCSJDT XFSF EJNFOTJPOBMMZ VOTUBCMFćFNBYJNVNXJEUIBOEMFOHUIDIBOHFT BęFSUIFSFMBYBUJPOXFSFOPUJDFBCMFXJUI¨SJC 4BNQMF BOE DVU QMVTI 4BNQMF o UIF XJEUI PG UIF LOJUUFE GBCSJDT JODSFBTFE XIJMF UIFJS MFOHUI EFDSFBTFE ćF NPTU EJNFOTJPOBMMZ TUBCMF LOJUUFE TUSVDUVSFXBTUIFMPPQQMVTI 4BNQMF4JOHMFKFS- TFZGSPNCBNCPPWJTDPTF 4BNQMFBOEUIF TBNF TUSVDUVSF NBEF GSPN B CBNCPP WJTDPTF BOE PSHBOJD DPUUPO CMFOE 4BNQMF FYIJCJUFE TJNJMBS SFMBYBUJPOTISJOLBHF

ćF UIJDLOFTT PG BMM LOJUUFE GBCSJDT JODSFBTFE XJUI XFUSFMBYBUJPOćFJODSFBTFXBTUIFTNBMMFTUXJUI

¨SJC 4BNQMFBOEUIFMBSHFTUXJUIIBMGUVDL SFMJFG TUSVDUVSF 4BNQMF XIJDI FYIJCJUFE IJHI MFOHUI TISJOLBHF ćF UIJDLOFTT PG B TJOHMF TUSVD- UVSFNBEFGSPNCBNCPPWJTDPTF 4BNQMF JODSFBTFENPSFUIBOUIFUIJDLOFTTPGBTJOHMFTUSVD- UVSFNBEFGSPNBCBNCPPWJTDPTFBOEPSHBOJDDPU- UPOCMFOE 4BNQMF

ćF EFOTJUZ DPFďDJFOU PG BMM TUSVDUVSFT FYDFQU GPS

SJCCFEXBT$XIJMF$GPS¨BOE¨

SJC ćF EFOTJUZ DPFďDJFOU EPFT OPU BDUVBMMZ EF- TDSJCFUIFQPSPTJUZPGUIFLOJUUFETUSVDUVSFCVUEF- ĕOFTUIFMPPQTIBQFJFUIFSBUJPCFUXFFOUIFMPPQ IFJHIUBOEXJEUI

ćF IJHIFTU BJS QFSNFBCJMJUZ XBT FYIJCJUFE CZ UIF TJOHMF TUSVDUVSF NBEF GSPN CBNCPP WJT- DPTF 4BNQMF XIJDI XBT BMTP UIF UIJOOFTU ćF MPPQQMVTI 4BNQMFBOEIBMGUVDLSFMJFGTUSVDUVSF 4BNQMF TIPXFE IJHI BJS QFSNFBCJMJUZ BT XFMM ćFBJSQFSNFBCJMJUZPGUIFLOJUUFETUSVDUVSFNBEF GSPNCBNCPPWJTDPTF 4BNQMFXBTTJHOJG- JDBOUMZIJHIFSUIBOUIFBJSQFSNFBCJMJUZPGUIFLOJU- UFE TUSVDUVSF NBEF GSPN B CBNCPP WJTDPTF BOE PSHBOJD DPUUPO CMFOE 4BNQMF ćF MPXFTU BJS QFSNFBCJMJUZ XBT FYIJCJUFE CZ UIF ĘFFDF TUSVDUVSF 4BNQMF'PSBMMUIFTBNQMFTUIFBJSQFSNFBCJMJ- UZPOUIFGSPOUPGUIFLOJUUFEGBCSJDFYDFFEFEUIFBJS QFSNFBCJMJUZPOUIFSFBSTJEFćFEJČFSFODFTXFSF NJOJNBMćFDPFďDJFOUPGWBSJBUJPOPGBJSQFSNFB- CJMJUZXBTo

ćFGBTUFTUXFUUJOHXBTFYIJCJUFECZUIFMPPQQMVTI 4BNQMF XIJDI DPOUBJOFE QPMZFTUFS JO BE- EJUJPOUPBOFRVBMTIBSFPGCBNCPPWJTDPTFBTEJE BMMUIFTBNQMFTNBEFGSPNĕCSFCMFOETćFTJOHMF TUSVDUVSFGSPNUIFCBNCPPWJTDPTFBOEPSHBOJDDPU- UPOCMFOE 4BNQMFBMTPXFUUFEWFSZRVJDLMZćF

¨SJCTUSVDUVSFFYIJCJUFEUIFTMPXFTUXFUUJOH"MM JOWFTUJHBUFE LOJUUFE TUSVDUVSFT EFNPOTUSBUFE HPPE XFUUBCJMJUZBTUIFXFUUJOHUJNFGPSBMMTBNQMFTXBT MFTTUIBOTFDPOETćFDPFďDJFOUPGWBSJBUJPOPG XJDLJOHUJNFXBTo

3FGFSFODFT

:6"/86426*/-*/4(SFFOSFTFBSDIPO UIF BQQMJDBUJPO PG CBNCPP NBUFSJBM PO IPNF BQQMJBODFT %PTUPQOP OB TWFUPWOFN TQMFUV IUUQTLESEZOEOTPSHQSPDFFEJOHTGQU QEGEQEG

:6&1*/(84USVDUVSFTPG#BNCPP'JCFSGPS 5FYUJMFTTextile Research JournalWPM -*114:.0/08*$;#4;5"+/084,*4 Qo 80+$*&$)084," % /FX DPNNFSDJBM ĕ- CSFT DBMMFE iCBNCPP ĕCSFTw o UIFJS TUSVDUVSF BOEQSPQFSUJFTFibres & Textiles in Eastern Eu-

ropeWPMOP Qo

(PPE GPS UIF FOWJSPONFOU %PTUPQOP OB TWF-

(7)

UPWOFN TQMFUV IUUQXXXCBNCPPDMPUIFT DPN"#06IUNM

&3%6.-6 % 0;*1&, # *OWFTUJHBUJPO PG SFHFOFSBUFECBNCPPĕCSFBOEZBSODIBSBDUFSJ- TUJDTFibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe WPMOP Qo

1SFWFSJUF QSBWJMOPTU OBWFECF TVSPWJOTLF TF- TUBWF /BSBWOB CBNCVTPWB WMBLOB BMJ WJTLP- [B J[ CBNCVTB y %PTUPQOP OB TWFUPWOFN spletu IUUQXXXP[OBLFUFLTUJMBTJJOEFY QIQ PQUJPODPN@DPOUFOUWJFXBSUJDMFJE

*UFNJEMBOHTM

%JČFSFODF CFUXFFO PSJHJOBM CBNCPP ĕCFS CBNCPPWJTDPTFĕCFS%PTUPQOPOBTWFUPWOFN

spletu IUUQXXXLPOĕDPNOFXIUN

0SJHJOBMCBNCPPĕCFSTUSVDUVSFBOENPSQIP - MPHZ %PTUPQOP OB TWFUPWOFN TQMFUV http://

XXXLPOĕDPNOFXIUN

/BUVSBM PSJHJOBM CBNCPP ĕCFS QSPQFSUJFT BOE QBSBNFUFS %PTUPQOP OB TWFUPWOFN TQMFUV IUUQXXXLPOĕDPNOFXIUN /BUVSBM PSJHJOBM CBNCPP ĕCFS BOUJCBDUFSJBM

BOE EFPEPSBOU GVODUJPO %PTUPQOP OB TWFUPW- OFN TQMFUV IUUQXXXLPOĕDPNOFXIUN /BUVSBM PSJHJOBM CBNCPP ĕCFS BOUJVMUSBWJPMFU GVODUJPO%PTUPQOPOBTWFUPWOFNTQMFUVhttp://

XXXLPOĕDPNOFXIUN

86 + ćF CFTU SBX NBUFSJBM GPS TPDLT o PSJ- HJOBM CBNCPP ĕCFS %PTUPQOP OB TWFUPWOFN

spletu IUUQXXXĕCSFGBTIJPODPN

:"0 8 ;)"/( 8 3FTFBSDI PO NBOVGBD - UVSJOH UFDIOPMPHZ BOE BQQMJDBUJPO PG OBUVSBM CBNCPPĕCSF'PVSUIJOUFSOBUJPOBMDPOGFSFODF

POJOUFMMJHFOUDPNQVUBUJPOUFDIOPMPHZBOEBV- UPNBUJPO 4IFO[IFO (VBOHEPOH %PTUP- QOP OB TWFUPWOFN TQMFUV %0* *$*$- 5"

-*6-8"/(2$)&/(-2*"/+:6 + .PEJĕDBUJPO PG OBUVSBM CBNCPP ĕCFST GPS UFYUJMF BQQMJDBUJPOFibres and polymers WPM Qo

$*.*--* 4 /&3(*4 #6$"/%"/ $

" DPNQBSBUJWF TUVEZ PG TPNF DPNGPSUSFMB- UFEQSPQFSUJFTPGTPDLTPGEJČFSFOUĕCFSUZQFT Textile Research JournalWPM Q ."+6.%"3".6),01"%):":4:"o -

%"7 3 ćFSNBM QSPQFSUJFT PG LOJUUFE GBCSJ- DTNBEFGSPNDPUUPOBOESFHFOFSBUFECBNCPP DFMMVMPTJD ĕCSFTInternational Journal of Ther-

mal SciencesWPMQo

4"3,"3 " , "11*%* 4 4JOHMF CBUI QSP- DFTTGPSJNQBSUJOHBOUJNJDSPCJBMBDUJWJUZBOEVM- USBWJPMFUQSPUFDUJWFQSPQFSUZUPCBNCPPWJTDPTF GBCSJDCelluloseWPMQo #*7"*/:5&".*,6ɇ*0/*&/&%*OWFTUJ-

HBUJPOPOUIFBJSBOEXBUFSWBQPVSQFSNFBCJMJ- UZPGEPVCMFMBZFSFEXFęLOJUUFEGBCSJDTFibres

& Textiles in Eastern EuropeMFUOP %&.*30;(6/"6/"-$6/"-#5 Qo

%JNFOTJPOBM BOE QIZTJDBM QSPQFSUJFT PG QMBJO LOJUUFEGBCSJDTNBEFGSPNCBNCPPDPU- UPO CMFOEFE ZBSOTFibres and polymers WPM Qo

'0+,"3"1"7,0"8FUUJOHPGJNNPCJMJ- [JOHQMBTUFSCBOEBHFTCZJNNFSTJPOCFGPSFBQ- QMJDBUJPOActa Chimica SlovenicaWPM Qo

Reference

POVEZANI DOKUMENTI

Sports socks fabrics produced from polyester, polypropylene, their modified forms Thermocool®, Polycolon®, in three different structures (single jersey, piquet, terry)

In order to develop a fuzzy resin model of viscose knitted fabrics, resin concentration (RC), softener concentration (SC) and curing time (CT) were used as input variables,

Our investigations revealed, using the ex- ample of cress, that steadily irrigated knitted fabrics enable plant growth on them, indicating no signifi cant diff erences between

The hybrid yarns, from which the rib knitted fabrics were produced, having always hemp yarn as a staple component, caused the diff erences in UV protection capability of the rib

[29] used regression tech- niques to determine empirical relationships be- tween the spirality of plain knitted wool fabrics and the parameters of plied yarns and

Cotton fabric (C) had the highest thermal re- sistance value which indicates that cotton fabrics will protect the body from temperature diff erence more than other

#BTFE PO UIF SFTVMUT PCUBJOFE XJUI TFMFDUFE TQFD - USPTDPQJDNFUIPETXFBOBMZTFEUIFJOĘVFODFPGBS - UJĕDJBMBHFJOHBOEEJČFSFOUTQFDJFTPGGVOHJPOUIF

6OJWFS[BW-KVCMKBOJ/BSBWPTMPWOPUFIOJØLBGBLVMUFUB0EEFMFL[B UFLTUJMTUWP4OFßOJØLB4*m-KVCMKBOB University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles,