Nova vlakna za 21. stoletje

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Novel Fibres for the 21

^st

Century*

Vodilni avtor/corresponding author:

dr. Tatjana Rijavec

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Nova vlakna za 21. stoletje

Povzetek

Članek obravnava najvidnejše razvojne dosežke na področju vlaken v zadnjih nekaj letih: nanovlakna, kemično pajkovo svilo, gensko spre- menjen bombaž, vlakna iz polimlečne kisline, inteligentna vlakna, vlakna z negativnim Pois- sonovim številom, sojina vlakna, vlakna iz ptičjega perja in nova poliestrska vlakna z la- tentno elastičnostjo.

Ključne besede: nanovlakna, kemična pajko- va svila, BioSteel, Bt bombaž, polimlečna kis- lina, PLA, sojina vlakna, vlakna iz ptičjega perja, optična vlakna, vlakna z negativnim Poissonovim številom, Corterra, Sorona, Secu- rus, polibutilen tereftalat, PBT, politrimetilen tereftalat, PTT, triexta, elesterell-p, elastomultiester

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bio-engineering materials

fibres of unimaginated

possibilities

biocalcula tions smar

t ma terials

chemistry and materials (new structures of different materials)

biology (accomodation to environment changes)

information science (most favorable paths)

DNK recombination

genomics

cell biology

intelligent modelling

information opto-electrical materials

polycatalysis

nanotechnology

combined methods

structure – property

modelling, simulation

data acquirement

Figure 1: Interdisciplinarity of science will enable development of new fibres

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Figure 2: Scheme of electrospinning procedure

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face of a garment with an electrospinning process

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3.1 Genetically altered cotton

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Figure 5: Touch and close fasteners from nanofibres

Figure 6: Structure of hollow carbon nanotube

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Figure 7: Opened cotton boll with a caterpillar of cotton’s moth Pectinophora gossypiella inside

Figure 8: Longitudinal view of BioSteel^® fibre

3.2 Man-made spider silk BioSteel®

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3.3 Triexta fibres from polytrimethylene terephthalate polymer Corterra®

and Sorona®

ćF QSPEVDUJPO PG QPMZFTUFS ĕCSFT NBEF PG QPMZ USJNFUIZMFOF UFSFQIUIBMBUF 155 TUBSUFE BU UIF FOEPGUIFT"MUIPVHIUIFQPMZNFSXBTTZOUIF- TJ[FEBOEQBUFOUFEBMSFBEZJOJUTQSPEVDUJPO XBT OPU QPTTJCMF EVF UP FYQFOTJWF QSPQBOFEJ- PMUIFCBTJDSBXNBUFSJBMGPS155"UUIFFOEPGUIF T4IFMM$IFNJDBMTEFWFMPQFEUIFNFUIPEGPSQSF- QBSJOH RVBMJUBUJWF QSPQBOFEJPM CZ DPOUJOVPVT IZESPGPSNJMBUJPOPGFUIZMFOFPYJEFćFQSPDFTTJT BDDPNQMJTIFECZUIFUSFBUNFOUXJUIIJHIQSFTTVSF BOEBUIJHIUFNQFSBUVSFJOBCMFOEPGFUIZMFOFPY- JEFIZESPHFOBOEDBSCPONPOPYJEFJOTPMWFOUćF JOUFSNFEJBUF QSPEVDU IZESPYZQSPQBOPM JT DPO- WFSUFEJOUPQSPQBOFEJPM #JP1%0XIJDIHJWFT UIFQPMZUSJNFUIZMFOFUFSFQIUIBMBUFQPMZNFSEVSJOH QPMZDPOEFOTBUJPOXJUIQVSFUFSQIUIBMJDBDJE 'JHVSF 1PMZNFSDPOUBJOTBMTPoPGMPXNPMFDV- MBSPMJHPNFSTBNPOHXIJDIUIFDPOUFOUPGOPOWPM- BUJMFDZDMJDEJNNFSJTUIFIJHIFTU4IFMM$IFNJDBMT JTDVSSFOUMZQSPEVDJOH155QPMZNFSBOE155ĕCSFT VOEFSUIFUSBEFNBSLOBNF$PSUFSSB'JCSFTBSFFY- USVEFEGSPN$PSUFSSBQPMZNFSCZNFMUQSPDFTTJOH

Figure 9: Natural spider silk properties in comparison to fibres BioSteel^®

Figure 10: A polycondensation reaction for synthe sis polyester from terephthalic acid and diol:

Diol: x = 2 /ethylenediol/, x = 3 /1,3-propanediol/, x

= 4 /1,4-butanediol/

Polyester: x = 2 /polyethyleneterephthalate (PET) or 2GT/, x = 3 /polythreemethyleneterephthalate (PTT) or 3GT/, x = 4 /polybuthyleneterephthalate (PBT) or 4GT.

$IFNJDBMSFTJTUBODFPG$PSUFSSBĕCSFTJTTJNJMBSUP UIBUPGQPMZFTUFSĕCSFTNBEFPGQPMZFUIZMFOFUFSFQI- UIBMBUFćFZBSFEZFEXJUIEJTQFSTFEZFTUVČTXJUI- PVUDBSSJFST4PNFQSPQFSUJFTBSFQSFTFOUFEJO5BCMF

<>

$PSUFSSB ĕCSFT BSF QSPEVDFE BT 10: ZBSOT DPN- NFSDJBMMZ BWBJMBCMF BSF TNPPUI UFYUVSFE IJHIMZ TUSPOHĕMBNFOUZBSOTBOETQJOOJOHNBUFSJBMTćFZ BSFVTFEGPSUIFNBOVGBDUVSFPGTQPSUTXFBSBOESFD-

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SFBUJPOBM DMPUIJOH DBSQFUT OPOXPWFOT GPS VQIPM- TUFSZPGGVSOJUVSFBOEDBST1SPEVDUTNBEFPG$PS- UFSSB ĕCSFT BSF EJTUJOHVJTIFE GPS UIFJS FBTZ DBSF IJHI TUSFUDI TPęOFTT QMFBTBOU UPVDI BOE CSJMMJBOU DPMPVSTćFZDPNCJOFHPPEQSPQFSUJFTPG1"ĕ- CSFT HPPEFMBTUJDSFDPWFSZTJNJMBSCVSOJOHCFIBW- JPVSBOE1&5ĕCSFT TJNJMBSDIFNJDBMSFTJTUBODF ćFJS HPPE FMBTUJD QSPQFSUJFT NBLF $PSUFSSB ĕ- CSFTTVJUBCMFGPSUIFQSPEVDUJPOPGDPSFTQVOZBSOT XIFSFUIFZDPNQFUFXJUIFMBTUBOFZBSOT -ZDSBCF- DBVTFUIFZEFWFMPQFMBTUJDJUZBUIJHIUFNQFSBUVSFT FHEVSJOHEZFJOH

%V1POU JT DVSSFOUMZ EFWFMPQJOH B 155 QPMZNFS BOE ĕCSFT VOEFS UIF USBEFNBSL OBNF 4PSPOB *O JUTUBSUFEUPDMPTFUIFQSPEVDUJPOPGQSP- QBOFEJPM (5 CBTFE PO QFUSPDIFNJDBM SBX NB- UFSJBMT OBQIUIBBOEJOJUTUBSUFEUPNBSLFU QSPQBOFEJPM QSPEVDFE CZ VTJOH B CJPDIFNJDBM

Table 1: Comparison of properties of fibres from different polyester polymers: PET, PBT, PTT in bicomponent elasterell-p (elastomultiester) fibres.

1SPQFSUZ 155 1&5 1#5 5

%FOTJUZPGĕCSFT HDN

%FOTJUZPGBNPSQIJDSFHJPOT HDN

%FOTJUZPGDISZTUBMMJDSFHJPOT HDN

(MBTTUSBOTJUJPOUFNQFSBUVSF ^o$ o

.FMUJOHQPJOUGSPN%4$ ^o$ o o o

5FNQFSBUVSFPGUIFSNPĕYBUJPO ^o$ o o o

%ZFJOHUFNQFSBUVSF ^o$ o o

4QFDUFOTJMFCSFBLJOHTUSFTT D/EUFY

#SFBLJOHFMPOHBUJPO

&MBTUJDFMPOHBUJPO o

.PEVMVTPGFMBTUJDJUZ D/EUFY

:BSODSJNQFYUFOTJPO

$SJNQGPSN irregular irregular irregular regular, spiral

:BSOMJWFMJOFTT twisting twisting twisting stil

FMPOHBUJPOBęFSEFDSJNQJOH

%FDSJNQJOHXBTNFBTVSFECZ"45.%NFUIPETLFJOPGMJOFBSEFOTJUZEFOXBTĕSTUUSFBUFEBUCPJMJOHUPEFWFMPQDSJNQT

"ęFSUIBUBMJOFBSEFOTJUZXBTNFBTVSFEBUMPBEPGH -"ęFSDZDMJDMPBEJOHPGTLFJOUJNFTVQUPNBTTUIBUDBVTFEEF- DSJNQJOH VQUPHUIFMFOHUIPGZBSOXBTNFBTVSFEBHBJO -$SJNQOFTT -o- -

NFUIPEPGDPSOTUBSDIGFSNFOUBUJPOTJNJMBSUPXJO- FNBLJOH 'JHVSF%V1POUIBTEFWFMPQFEUIFCJ- PTZOUIFTJTPGQSPQBOFEJPMJOBMPOHDPPQFSBUJPO XJUI(FOFODPS*OUFSOBUJPOBM"NPOPNFSIBTCFFO QSPUFDUFE VOEFS UIF USBEFNBSL OBNF #JP1%0^5.

Figure 11: Biochemical synthesis of 1,3 propanediol - Bio-PDO^TM

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#JPDIFNJDBM TZOUIFTJT JOWPMWFT UIF VTF PG NJDSP- PSHBOJTNT XIPTF FO[ZNFT DPOWFSU UIF DPSOTUBSDI JOUPQSPQBOFEJPM*OUIBUDBTFUIFSBXNBUFSJ- BMGPSUIFTZOUIFTJTPG155JTOBUVSBMSFOFXBCMFBOE OPNPSFEFQFOEFOUPOOBQIUIB<>

*O .BSDI 'FEFSBM 5SBEF $PNNJTJPO 64"

BQQSPWFEBOFXDMBTTPGĕCSFTXJUIBHFOFSJDOBNF USJFYUB ĕCSFT UIBU BSF NBEF GSPN 155 QPMZNFS XIJDICBTFPO#*01%0

3.4 Polylactide fibres (PLA)

1PMZMBDUJD BDJE JT B OBUVSBM CJPEFHSBEBCMF PSHBOJD TVCTUBODFXIJDIJTIBSCPVSFEJOUIFCPEJFTPGBO- JNBMTQMBOUTBOENJDSPCFT1PMZMBDUJDBDJEBTTVDI DBOOPUCFGPVOEJOUIFOBUVSFCVUTIPVMECFJOEVT- USJBMMZQSFQBSFECZMBDUJDBDJEQPMZNFSJTBUJPO-BD- UJDBDJEVTFEGPSUIFTZOUIFTJTPGQPMZMBDUJDBDJEJT EFSJWFEGSPNHFOFUJDBMMZBMUFSFEDPSOHSBJOT 'JHVSF 1-"JTBUIFSNPQMBTUJDQPMZNFSXJUIUIFNFMU- JOHQPJOUBUBCPVU¡$*UJTQSPEVDFECZ$BSHJMM

%PX--$ /BUVSF8PSLT¥.JUTVJ5PBUTV$IFNJ- DBM -BDFB¥4IJNBE[V$IFNJDBM -BDUZ¥6OJUJLB 5FSSBNBD¥

NPEVMVT o (1B "U UIF FMPOHBUJPO UIFJS FMBTUJDSFDPWFSZJTćFJSDPOUSBDUJPOJOCPJMJOH XBUFSJToBCTPSQUJPOPGBJSNPJTUVSFJTBCPVU ćFNFMUJOHQPJOUPG1-"ĕCSFTJTo¡$

BOEUIFHMBTTUSBOTJUJPOUFNQFSBUVSF¡$ćFEFO- TJUZPGĕCSFTJToHDN^o and their weight is MPXFSUIBOUIBUPG1&41&5ĕCSFT

*OUFMMJHFOUñCSFT

*OUFMMJHFOUPSTNBSUĕCSFTBSFUIFĕCSFTNBEFPGTQF- DJBMTUJNVMJTFOTJUJWFQPMZNFSTPSOBOPDBQTVMFTUIBU SFBDU UP UIF FOWJSPONFOU CZ DIBOHJOH UIFJS NJDSP- TUSVDUVSF BOE QSPQFSUJFT ćFZ SFBDU UP UIF DIBOHFT PG UFNQFSBUVSF NFDIBOJDBM GPSDF MJHIU DPODFOUSB- UJPOPGFMFDUSPMZUFTBOEQ)BTXFMMBTUPUIFDIBOH- FTPGUIFFMFDUSJDBOENBHOFUJDĕFME*OUFMMJHFOUĕCSFT IFMQSFHVMBUFCPEZUFNQFSBUVSFPSQSPWJEFJOWJTJCJMJUZ UP*3EFUFDUJPOQSFWFOUTUBJOJOHPGQSPEVDUTJOEVDF TFMGDMFBOJOH QSPQFSUJFT FH ĘPPS DPWFSJOHT QSF- WFOUPEPVSBCTPSQUJPOQSPWJEFTBGFUZ FHEVSJOHDBS ESJWJOHQSPWJEFBOUJCBMMJTUJDQSPUFDUJPOUIFZBSFCJ- PMPHJDBMMZBDUJWF CJPBDUJWFFMFDUSPDPOEVDUJWFFUD

*OUFMMJHFOUĕCSFTBSFNPTUGSFRVFOUMZNBOVGBDUVSFE CZDPBUJOHĕCSFTXJUIQPMZNFSTTFOTJUJWFUPFYUFSOBM TUJNVMJPSCZFNCFEEJOHTVDIQPMZNFSTJOUPĕCSFT CZVTJOHUIFQMBTNBQSPDFTT

4.1 Fibres with PCMs

(Phase Change Materials)

.PTUEFWFMPQFEQPMZNFSTXIJDISFDPHOJ[FUIFFO- WJSPONFOUBMDPOEJUJPOTBSFTFOTJUJWFUPUIFDIBOHF PG UFNQFSBUVSF "U B DFSUBJO UFNQFSBUVSF UIFZ VO- EFSHPUIFQSPDFTTPGQIBTFDIBOHFBOEBSFUIFSFGPSF DMBTTJĕFEBT1$.TPS1IBTF$IBOHF.BUFSJBMTćF QPUFOUJBMTPGUIFĕCSFTDPOUBJOJOH1$.TBSFJOUIF ĕFMEPGQSPUFDUJPOBHBJOTUDPMEBOEIFBUTQPSUTXFBS NFEJDBMBOEIZHJFOJDQSPEVDUTćF1$.TUFDIOPM- ogy has been developed and patent protected by /"4"ćFVTFPG1$.TJOĕCSFTXBTUFTUFEGPSUIF ĕSTUUJNFJO

1$.TIBWFTVQFSJPSDBQBDJUZUPBCTPSCMBUFOUIFBU UIBO ĕCSFT ćF DBQBDJUZ PG QBSBďO 1$.T UP BC- TPSCMBUFOUIFBUJTBCPVUL+LHXJUIPVUDIBOH- JOHUIFJSUFNQFSBUVSFXIFSFBTUIFUFNQFSBUVSFPG LHPGTUBOEBSEĕCSFTSJTFTGPSEFHSFFXIFOPOMZ L+PGMBUFOUIFBUJTBCTPSCFE8JUIUIFBCTPSQUJPO PG IFBU JOUFSNPMFDVMBS MJOLT JO 1$.T CSFBL BOE 1$.TDPOWFSUJOUPMJRVJETUBUF

Figure 12: A synthesis of polylactic acid (PLA)

$BSHJMM %PX --$ QBUFOUFE UIF QSPEVDUJPO PG ĕ- CSFT GSPN 1-" QPMZNFS JO VOEFS UIF USBEF- NBSL OBNF *OHFP^5. <> ćF ĕCSFT BSF DVSSFOUMZ QSPEVDFECZUIF+BQBOFTFDPNQBOZ5PSBZBOEUIF

"NFSJDBO DPNQBOZ 'JCFS *OOPWBUJPO 5FDIOPMPHZ

*OD '*5,BOFCPJTQSPEVDJOH1-"ĕCSFTVOEFS UIFUSBEFNBSLOBNF-BDUSPO¥<>

ćFĕCSFTBSFQSPEVDFECZVTJOHUIFDPOWFOUJPOBM NFMUTQJOOJOHNFUIPEćFZIBWFSPVOEPSQSPĕMFE USJMPCBMDSPTTTFDUJPOBOEIJHIUPNFEJVNMVTUSF ćFQSPEVDUJPOJODMVEFTBMTPCJDPNQPOFOUĕCSFTPG UIF TIFBUIDPSF UZQF DPNQPTFE PG TZOUIFUJD QPMZ- NFSBOE1-"

1IZTJDBMQSPQFSUJFTPG1-"ĕCSFTBSFTJNJMBSUPUIPTF PG1"BOE1&4ĕCSFTćFJSUFOTJMFTUSFOHUIJTo D/UFY FMPOHBUJPO BU CSFBL o :PVOHT

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1$.T IFMQ UP SFHVMBUF CPEZ UFNQFSBUVSF CZ EZ- OBNJD TUPSJOH BOE SFMFBTJOH IFBU XJUIJO UIF TLJO UFNQFSBUVSFSBOHFJFGSPNUP¡$UISPVHIUIF DIBOHFTPGUIFJSBHHSFHBUFTUBUFGSPNTPMJEUPMJRVJE QIBTFBOESFWFSTFMZGSPNMJRVJEUPTPMJEQIBTF8F TQFBLBCPVUWBSJPVTQBSBďOXBYFTMJDPTBOFPDUB- EFLBOFIFQUBEFDBOFIFYBEFDBOF<>'JCSFTUFY- UJMF NBUFSJBMT BOE GPBNT XJUI FNCFEEFE 1$.T TUPSFUIFSFMFBTFECPEZUFNQFSBUVSFBOESFUVSOJUUP the body as soon as the body needs it in depend- FODFPGJUTQIZTJDBMBDUJWJUZPSPVUEPPSUFNQFSBUVSF TPUIBUUIFCPEZLFFQTDPOTUBOUCPEZUFNQFSBUVSF BMMUIFUJNFćFPOMZĕCSFTXJUIFNCFEEFE1$.T XIJDIBSFDPNNFSDJBMMZBWBJMBCMFBSF1"/BOE1&4 ĕCSFT(BUFXBZ5FDIOPMPHJFT*ODIBTQSPUFDUFEUIF 1$.TUFDIOPMPHZ*ONPTUDBTFT1$.TBSFTQSFBE PWFSUIFTVSGBDFPGĕCSFT UIFQSPUFDUFEUSBEFNBSL OBNF0VUMBTU 'JHVSF

EVDFECZUIFDIBOHFPGUFNQFSBUVSF"UBDFSUBJO CBMBODFUFNQFSBUVSFUIFQPMZNFSBCTPSCTXBUFS GSPN UIF FOWJSPONFOU BOE TXFMMT TVCTUBOUJBM- MZDPOWFSUTUPHFMBOEJODSFBTFTJUTEJNFOTJPOT 8IFOUIFUFNQFSBUVSFSJTFTHFMEJTDIBSHFTXB- UFSBOETISJOLT

*POJDQPMZDBSCPYZMQPMZNFST 1""XJUICPVOE –

XFBLDBSCPYZMHSPVQTTFOTJUJWFUPQ)FMFDUSPMZUFT BSFBMTPDMBTTJĕFEBT4.1T8IFOQ)WBMVFJTSF- EVDFE DBSCPYZM HSPVQT MPTF UIFJS DIBSHF CJOE IZESPHFO QSPUPO 3FQVMTJPO CFUXFFO QPMZNFST CFDPNFTMFTTJOUFOTJWFXIJDIMFBETUPTISJOLBHF PGHFM DPMMBQTF"EEJUJPOPGTBMUUPUIFHFMNBLFT UIF FČFDUJWF EJTUBODF PG SFQVMTJWF GPSDFT BDUJWJ- UZTIPSUFSUIFDPOTFRVFODFPGXIJDIJTBHBJOUIF TISJOLBHFPGHFM DPMMBQTF

#ZVTJOHUIFFYJTUJOHUFDIOPMPHZ4.1TBSFTQSFBE PWFS UIF TVSGBDF PG ĕCSFT BT B ĕMN XIJDI TIPVME OPUCFEBNBHFEJGXFXBOUUPBDIJFWFHPPESFWFST- JCJMJUZ

ćJSEHFOFSBUJPOPGEFWFMPQFE4.1TBSFQPMZFUI- –

ZMFOFHMZDPMT 1&( XIJDI BQQFBS JO B SVCCFS MJLFTUBUFBOEOFWFSDSZTUBMMJ[FBCVOEBOUMZ6O- MJLF1/*1""NBOE1""QPMZNFST1&(TBSFBT BSFTVMUPGUIFJSFMBTUJDJUZDBQBCMFPGXJUITUBOE- JOHUFOTJPOTEVSJOHTXFMMJOHXJUIPVUBOZSJTLPG TVSGBDFDSBDLT1&(TBQQMJFEPODPUUPOQPMZFTUFS PSPUIFSĕCSFTQSPWJEFBEBQUBUJPOUPBQSFEFĕOFE UFNQFSBUVSFBOESFWFSTJCMFDPOUSBDUJPOPGĕCSFT PSUFYUJMFT

ćF VTF PG 4.1 NBUFSJBMT GPS DPOUSPMMFE EFMJWFSZ PGESVHTGPPEQFSGVNFTBOEIFSCJDJEFTGPSNFEJ- DBMBOEIZHJFOJDUFYUJMFTTVDIBTCBCZEJBQFSTIFBM- JOH VOEFSXFBS XIJDI IFMQT IFBM XPVOET DPN- pression dressings, plasters, incontinence diapers, TBOJUBSZUPXFMTTPDLTBHSPUFYUJMFTFUDJTVOEFSJO- WFTUJHBUJPO "U DPOUBDU XJUI MJRVJET XBUFS CMPPE FUD4.1TTISJOLFH4.1NBUFSJBMTVTFEBTDPN- pression dressings shrink at contact with blood and CMFFEJOHTUPQT<>

Figure 13: A cross-section of a textile phase change material (PCM) with a layer of Outlast in the middle

Figure 14: Intelligent fibres Securus for saftey belts and a blockcopolymer PET-PCL

4.2 Shape Memory Fibres

1PMZNFSTXIJDIDIBOHFUIFJSTIBQFJOSFTQPOTFUP FYUFSOBMTUJNVMJ UFNQFSBUVSFQ)FUDBSFJEFOUJ- ĕFEBT4.1T 4IBQF.FNPSZ1PMZNFST

%JNFOTJPOBMDIBOHFTPGTPNF4.1TTVDIBTQP- –MZ/JTPQSPQZMBDSZMBNJEFT 1/*1""N BSF JO-

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*UJTFYQFDUFEUIBU4.1ĕCSFTXJMMCFVTFEGPSDMPUI- ing which will not need ironing as they will revert, BUUIFQSFQSPHSBNNFEUFNQFSBUVSFUPUIFJSJOJUJBM TIBQF BOE EJNFOTJPO BęFS IBWJOH CFFO TUSFUDIFE BOE TVCKFDUFE UP EFGPSNBUJPOT ćF DPNQBOZ &V- SPQFBO4QBDF"HFODZIBTEFWFMPQFEBTIJSUXIJDI SFDPWFSTGSPNXSJOLMFTBUCPEZUFNQFSBUVSFEVSJOH XFBS<>

1BUFOUFE 4FDVSVT ĕCSFT )POFZXFMM < > BMTP CFMPOHUPUIFHSPVQPGTIBQFNFNPSZĕCSFTćFTF ĕCSFTBSFUIFĕSTUIJHIQFSGPSNBODFĕCSFTXJUIFO- HJOFFSFEQSPQFSUJFTPGUIBULJOEćFZBSFEFTJHOFE GPSDBSTFBUCFMUT 'JHVSF

4FDVSVTĕCSFTBSFCMPDLDPQPMZNFSĕCSFTNBEFPG polyethylene terephthalate and polycaprolactone 1&51$-ćFZBSFFYUSVEFEGSPNB1&51$-DP- QPMZNFSNFMUCZVTJOHBTQFDJBMSFBDUJWFFYUSVTJPO UFDIOPMPHZ *O BEEJUJPO UP IJHI TUSFOHUI BOE IJHI :PVOHTNPEVMVTUIFTFĕCSFTBSFDBQBCMFUPRVJDL- MZ BCTPSC JNQBDUT 4FBU CFMUT NBEF PG 4FDVSVT ĕ- CSFTDBOBCTPSCUJNFTNPSFFOFSHZUIBODVSSFOUMZ VTFEDPOWFOUJPOBMTFBUCFMUTćFiJOUFMMJHFOUwSFBD- UJPOPG4FDVSVTĕCSFTQSPWJEFTUIBUTFBUCFMUTFYUFOE UPBEFUFSNJOFEWBMVFXJUIJOBQSFEFĕOFESBOHFPG MPBEJOH 4FDVSVT ĕCSFT EFMJWFS UISFFTUFQ SFTUSBJOU SFBDUJPO UP UFOTJPO XJUIJO UIF UFOTJPO SBOHF o D/UFY PS XJUIJO o FYUFOTJPO "U MPXFS UFO- TJPOTUPBCPVUD/UFY UPBCPVUFYUFOTJPO IJHI :PVOHT NPEVMVT PG ĕCSFT FOBCMFT UIBU TFBU CFMUIPMETPDDVQBOUTUJHIUMZJOQPTJUJPOćJTGVOD- UJPOPGIPMEJOHPDDVQBOUTJOQPTJUJPOJTWFSZJNQPS- tant in a traffic collision as it triggers the seat belt MPDLJOH NFDIBOJTN *O UIJT ĕSTU TUFQ 4FDVSVT ĕ- CSFT CFIBWF TJNJMBSMZ BT DPOWFOUJPOBM QPMZFTUFS ĕ- CSFTćFTFDPOETUFQSFQSFTFOUTUIFSBOHFPGIJHI- FSUFOTJPOTGSPNoD/UFY oFYUFOTJPO XIFO :PVOHT NPEVMVT PG ĕCSFT JT FYUSFNFMZ SF- EVDFEBOEFOBCMFTCBMBODJOHPGMPBE*OUIJTTUBHF BOPDDVQBOUTDPOUSPMMFEGPSXBSENPWFNFOUJTQPT- TJCMFCZXIJDIUIFGPSDFJNQPTFEPOUIFPDDVQBOUJT SFEVDFE*OUIFUIJSETUFQJOXIJDIUIFUFOTJPOFY- DFFETD/UFY BCPWFoFYUFOTJPO:PVOHT NPEVMVT TVCTUBOUJBMMZ JODSFBTFT BOE IPMET UIF PD- DVQBOUJOQPTJUJPOBTMPOHBTUIFĕCSFTTVDDFFEJO BCTPSCJOHUIFFOUJSFFOFSHZSFMFBTFEBUJNQBDUJOB USBďDDPMMJTJPO

ćF 4FDVSVT TFBU CFMUT XJUI UIFJS QSPHSBNNFE CF- IBWJPVS QSPWJEF IJHIFS QSPUFDUJPO GPS PDDVQBOUT than conventional polyester seat belt restraint sys- UFNT CZ NJOJNJ[JOH UIF GPSDF FYFSUFE PO BO PDDV-

QBOUTDIFTUBOEBMTPPOUIFIFBEPGTNBMMFSQFSTPOT BOEDIJMESFO

4.3 Fibres sensitive to UV rays (chromic materials) and to X-rays

ćFHSPVQPGDPMPVSBDUJWFJOUFMMJHFOUĕCSFTJOWPMWFT UIF ĕCSFT XIJDI DIBOHF UIFJS DPMPVS SFWFSTJCMZ JO EFQFOEFODF PG FYUFSOBM DPOEJUJPOT DIBNFMFPO ĕ- CSFTćFTFBSFUIFĕCSFTXIJDIDIBOHFUIFJSDPM- PVS BOE UIF ĕCSFT XIJDI CFDPNF JOWJTJCMF ćFZ DBOCFTFOTJUJWFUPIFBU<>MJHIU WJTJCMFPS67 BOE PUIFS FMFDUSPNBHOFUJD SBEJBUJPOT <> FMFDUSJD FOFSHZQSFTTVSFBOETPMWFOUTPSPUIFSMJRVJET

'JCSFTUIBUBCTPSCWJTJCMFMJHIUBOEDIBOHFUIFJS –

DPMPVSBDDPSEJOHMZDPOUBJOTQFDJĕDPSHBOJDEZF- TUVČT QIPUPDISPNJD EZFTUVČT ćF 67TFOTJ- UJWFTQJSPQJSBOFJOEVDFTUIFĕCSFDPMPVSQFSDFOU- BHFQIFOPNFOPOJOEFQFOEFODFPGUIFBCTPSCFE 67MJHIUXBWFMFOHUI

'JCSFT NBEF GSPN TUBJOMFTT TUFFM UIBU BSF DPBU- –

FEXJUIUIFSNPDISPNJDJOLXIFODPOOFDUFEUP the power supply, can change their colour in de- QFOEFODF PG UIF IFBU SFMFBTFE CZ DPOEVDUJWF ĕ- CSFT 8BMM DVSUBJOT XIJDI BSF QSPHSBNNFE UP DIBOHF UIF DPMPVS PG UIF JOUFHSBUFE DPOEVDUJWF ĕCSFTBSFUIFFYBNQMFPGTVDIVTF

"DPSEJT 4QFDJBMJUZ 'JCSFT IBT EFWFMPQFE B 11 –

NVMUJĕMBNFOU ZBSO OBNFE .JDSPQBLF XIJDI JTNBEFGSPN11XJUIUIFBEEJUJPOPGBDPODFO- USBUFDPOUBJOJOHNPSFUIBOPG#Z40'BC- SJDT NBEF GSPN .JDSPQBLF BSF iWJTJCMFw GPS 9 SBZTćFZBSOTQSPQFSUJFTBSFTVQFSJPSUPUIPTF PG17$NPOPĕMBNFOUUIBUIBTCFFOVTFEGPSUIJT QVSQPTFTPGBS

4.4 Optical fibres

0OFPGUIFBQQMJDBUJPOTPGPQUJDBMĕCSFTJTGPSPQUJDBM TFOTPST VTFE UP NFBTVSF UFNQFSBUVSF TUSFTTTUSBJO HBTFT CJPMPHJDBM TVCTUBODFT BOE PEPVST <> 4JODF HMBTT PQUJDBM ĕCSFT BSF DBQBCMF PG USBOTNJUUJOH MJHIU TJHOBMTPWFSMPOHEJTUBODFTUIFZIBWFCFFOVTFEGPS PQUJDBM ĕCSF DBCMFT JO UFMFDPNNVOJDBUJPOT GPS RVJUF BMPOHUJNF0SHBOJDQPMZNFSPQUJDBMĕCSFTBSFNBEF GSPN QPMZNFUIZMBDSZMBUF DPNNFSDJBMMZ BWBJMBCMF GPSBCPVUZFBSTQPMZTUZSFOFBOEQPMZDBSCPOBUFT ćFZDBOCFVTFEGPSEBUBUSBOTNJTTJPOPWFSTIPSUEJT- UBODFTVQUPGFXUFONFUSFTBOEDBOCFJODPSQPSBUFE JOUPDMPUIJOH/PWFMQFSĘVPSPQPMZNFSTIBWFMPXBC- TPSQUJPODBQBCJMJUZBOEBSFBTTVDITVJUBCMFGPSNBL- JOHPQUJDBMĕCSFTGPSDPNNVOJDBUJPOBQQMJBODFT<>

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ćFVTFPGPQUJDBMĕCSFTJODPNCJOBUJPOXJUIFMFD- USPOJDT BOE JOGPSNBUJPO UFDIOPMPHZ XIJDI JO- DMVEFTDPNQVUFSTUFMFQIPOFTFUTFUDJTDPOOFDUFE XJUIUIFEFWFMPQNFOUPGJOUFMMJHFOUUFYUJMFT4FOTB- UFY<>XBTUIFĕSTUDPNQBOZXIJDINBOVGBDUVSFE BOE NBSLFUFE iB TNBSU 5TIJSUw 'JHVSFT XJUIJOUFHSBUFEPSHBOJDQPMZNFSPQUJDBMĕCSFTDPO- OFDUFEUPBQSPDFTTPS"TNBSU5TIJSUFNJUTMJHIUJO DPMPVSTJOEFQFOEFODFPGDSJUJDBMMFWFMPGWJUBM MJGFGVODUJPOToCZNFBTVSJOHCMPPEQSFTTVSFQVMTF CMPPETVHBSFUD

UJMFDVSUBJOTFUDXJMMCFMFTTOPUJDFBCMFBOENPSF DPNGPSUBCMF

"VYFUJDñCSFT OFHBUJWF1PJTTPOT SBUJPñCSFT

8IFOBYJBMMZTUSFUDIFEĕCSFTFYUFOEJOMFOHUIXJTF EJSFDUJPO ͅMMBOEDPOUSBDUJOUSBOTWFSTBMEJSFD- UJPO oͅEE BU UIF TBNF UJNF 1PJTTPOT SBUJP Ϫ FYQSFTTFT UIF SBUJP PG MPOHJUVEJOBM TUSBJO UP USBOT- WFSTBMTUSBJO"DMBTTJDBMFMBTUJDJUZUIFPSZPGJTPUSPQ- JD NBUFSJBMT QSFEJDUT UIF WBMVFT PG 1PJTTPOT SBUJP WBMVFTGSPNoUP4JODFUIFWPMVNFPGĕCSFT does not change or perhaps only slightly increases Ⱦ7ȴBUTUSFUDIJOHUIF1PJTTPOTSBUJPJTMFTTUIBO UZQJDBMMZ GSPN UP 'JHVSF .PTU ĕCSFT CFIBWF JO UIJT XBZ XIFO TUSFUDIFE 0OMZ B TNBMMOVNCFSPGOBUVSBMBOETZOUIFUJDNBUFSJBMTFY- IJCJUUIFPQQPTJUFQIFOPNFOPOXIJDINFBOTUIBU UIFZ CFDPNF UIJDLFS XIFO TUSFUDIFE BOE UIJOOFS XIFODPNQSFTTFE 'JHVSFćFTFNBUFSJBMTIBWF BOFHBUJWF1PJTTPOTSBUJPćFZBSFLOPXOVOEFSUIF OBNFBVYFUJDBOUJSVCCFSPSEJMBUJPOBM FYQBOEJOH NBUFSJBMT<>ćFXPSEBVYFUJDJTEFSJWFEGSPNUIF (SFFLXPSEBVYFTJTNFBOJOHiJODSFBTFwćJTUFSNJT VTFEJOCJPMPHZUPEFTDSJCFUIFDFMMWPMVNFFOMBSHF- NFOUBUHSPXUIQSJPSUPJUTEJWJTJPO

&YBNQMFTPGBVYFUJDNBUFSJBMTDBOCFGPVOEBNPOH QPMZNFSTNFUBMTBOEDFSBNJDT4PNFOBUVSBMNB-

Figure 16: Sensatex: a smart shirt Figure 15: Smart shirt – scheme

*OPSEFSUPBDIJFWFWBSJPVTDPMPVSFČFDUTUPUSBOT- GFS NPUJPO QJDUVSFT PO UFYUJMFT FUD MJHIU FNJUUJOH EJPEFT -&%T QPXFSFE CZ VOOPUJDFBCMF CBUUFS- JFTIBWFCFFOEFWFMPQFE'JCSFTBSFJOUFHSBUFEJOUP DMPUIJOH UPHFUIFS XJUI NJDSPDIJQT BOE TXJUDIFT

<>"U'SBODF5FMFDPNTVDIPQUJDBMĕCSFTXFSFBE- EJUJPOBMMZQFSGPSBUFEBMPOHUIFMFOHUITPUIBUUIFZ FNJUMJHIUPWFSUIFFOUJSFMFOHUIBOEOPUPOMZBUUIF FOETćFVTFPGUIFNFOUJPOFEPSHBOJDQPMZNFSPQUJDBM ĕCSFTJOUIFĕFMEPGUFDIOJDBMUFYUJMFTXJMMQBWFUIF XBZGPSUIFEFWFMPQNFOUPGTPQIJTUJDBUFETZTUFNTJO XIJDI UIF JOGPSNBUJPO UFDIOPMPHZ JOUFHSBUFE JOUP

UFYUJMF NBUFSJBMT ĘPPS DPWFSJOHT BVUPNPUJWF UFY- Figure 18: A model of stretching a fibre with a negative Poisson’s ratio

Figure 17: A model of stretching a fibre with a posi- tive Poisson’s ratio

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UFSJBMTIBWFBOFHBUJWF1PJTTPOTSBUJPBUBNPMFDVMBS MFWFMćJTVOUZQJDBMQSPQFSUZIBTBTJHOJĕDBOUJOĘV- FODFPOUIFJSNFDIBOJDBMQSPQFSUJFTTVDIBTTIFBS NPEVMVTQVODUVSFBOEJOEFOUBUJPOSFTJTUBODFJN- QBDUSFTJTUBODFUIFSNBMTIPDLTBOETPVOEBCTPSQ- UJPO*O34-BLFT<>NBOVGBDUVSFEUIFĕSTUTZO- UIFUJDNBUFSJBMFYIJCJUJOHBOFHBUJWF1PJTTPOTSBUJP

#ZVTJOHIJHIQSFTTVSFTIFTVDDFFEFEJODPNQSFTT- JOHTUBOEBSEQPMZVSFUIBOFGPBNDPOTJTUJOHPGIPO- FZDPNCTIBQFEBJSĕMMFEIFYBHPOBMDFMMTJOTVDIB XBZUIBUJUBEPQUFEiSFFOUSBOUwCFIBWJPVSBOEXBT XIFOOPSNBMMZTUSFUDIFEDBQBCMFPGFYUFOEJOHUPB DFSUBJOFYUFOUFWFOJOUSBOTWFSTBMEJSFDUJPOćFCF- IBWJPVSPGTVDITUSVDUVSFXIFOTUSFUDIFEJTQSFTFOU- FEJO'JHVSF

UFSJOH1&QPXEFSQBSUJBMMZNFMUFEBOEHBWFSJTFUP ĕCSJMMBUJPOćFPCUBJOFE11ĕMBNFOUTIBWFEJBNF- UFSTUPNNBOE:PVOHTNPEVMVTSBOHJOHCFUXFFO BOE(1B<>

ćF EFWFMPQNFOU PG B DPOUJOVPVT NBOVGBDUVS- JOHQSPDFTTGPSTVDINBUFSJBMTJOĕCSJMMBSNPOPĕMB- NFOUPSNVMUJĕMBNFOUGPSNBTXFMMBTGBCSJDTXPWFO PSLOJUUFEGSPNTVDINBUFSJBMTIBTDSFBUFEUIFPQ- QPSUVOJUZUPVTFVOJRVFQSPQFSUJFTPGBVYFUJDNBUF- rials, such as pull-out resistance, toughness, energy BCTPSQUJPODPNQSFTTJPOBOEJOEFOUBUJPOSFTJTUBODF JNQBDU SFTJTUBODF SFMFBTF PG FOUSBQQFE QBSUJDMFT XFBSSFTJTUBODFBOENJDSPQPSPTJUZćFĕCSFTDBOCF VTFE GPS DPNQPTJUFT QSPUFDUJWF DMPUIJOH IFMNFUT KBDLFUT TQPSUTXFBS ĕMUFST GPS NFDIBOJDBM MVOHT NJDSPQPSPVTIPMMPXNBUFSJBMTSPQFTDPSETĕTI- OFUTVQIPMTUFSZJOCJPNFEJDBMJOEVTUSZGPSNFEJ- DBMCBOEBHFTBOEĕCSPVTTFBMT

/PWFMNBONBEFQSPUFJOñCSFT

6.1 Soybean fibres

4PZCFBO ĕCSFT <> 'JHVSF BSF UIF POMZ DPN- NFSDJBMMZBWBJMBCMFNBONBOQSPUFJOĕCSFTćFSBX NBUFSJBMGPSTPZCFBOĕCSFTJTTPZCFBOQSPUFJOTUIBU SFNBJOBęFSFYUSBDUJPOPGTPZCFBOPJMBOEBSFQSP- EVDFECZBOPWFMCJPFOHJOFFSJOHUFDIOPMPHZ'JSTU- MZUIFQSPUFJOHMPCVMJOJTEJTUJMMFEGSPNUIFTPZCFBO DBLFBOESFĕOFE BCPVULHPGHMPCVMJOBSFPC- UBJOFEGSPNUPOOFPGTPZCFBOTBOETFDPOEMZVO- EFSUIFGVODUJPOJOHPGBEEJUJPOBMDIFNJDBMSFBHFOUT BOECJPMPHJDBMFO[ZNFTUIFHMPCVMBSBOETQIFSJDBM structure changes in such a way that it can be proc- FTTFEJOUPĕCSFT'JCSFTBSFFYUSVEFEGSPNUIFTQJO- OJOHTPMVUJPODPOGFDUFEGSPNTPZCFBOTCZVTJOHUIF XFUTQJOOJOHNFUIPE$BCMFTIBQFESFHFOFSBUFEĕ- bres are stabilized by acetalizing in acid bath prior UPCFJOHDVUJOUPTIPSUTUBQMFT"OUJCJPUJDT BHBJOTU Figure 19: A model of hexagonal structure (a) that at

high pressure lead to a structure with a negative Pois- son’s ratio (b)

*O,&&WBOTGPVOEPVUUIBUUIFUIJDLOFTTPG DPOWFOUJPOBM QPMZUFUSBĘVPSPFUIZMFOF 15'& ĕMN JODSFBTFEXIFOTUSFUDIFE*UJTUIFTPDBMMFEOPEVMF ĕCSJMNJDSPTUSVDUVSFXIJDIXIFOTUSFUDIFEJOUIF EJSFDUJPO PG ĕCSJMT DSFBUFT B MBUUJDFMJLF TUSVDUVSF XIJDIFYQBOETBMTPJOUSBOTWFSTBMEJSFDUJPO 'JHVSF

&WBOTBQQMJFEUIJTNPEFMPGNJDSPTUSVDUVSFUP PUIFSQPMZNFSTJODMVEJOH1&BOE11<>4DJ- FOUJTUT BU UIF #PMUPO *OTUJUVUF QSPEVDFE BVYFUJD ĕ- CSFTCZVTJOHQPMZFUIZMFOFPGVMUSBIJHINPMFDVMBS XFJHIU 1&6).8JOQPXEFSGPSNćFQSPDFTT XBT CBTFE PO DPOWFOUJPOBM NFMUTQJOOJOH NFUI- PECVUXJUIOPWFMQSPDFTTJOHDPOEJUJPOTSFRVJSFEUP QSPEVDFUIFOPEVMFĕCSJMNJDSPTUSVDUVSF"ęFSTJO-

Figure 20: A model of nodule-fibril microstructure af- ter Evans

Figure 21: Soyabean protein fibres – raw (left) and bleached (right)

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coli bacillus, staphylococcus aureus and candida al- CJDBOTCBDUFSJBBOUJJOĘBNNBUPSZBHFOUTBOE67 protection agents are added during the spinning QSPDFTT

ćF DPNQBOZ 4XJDPĕM <> JT DVSSFOUMZ QSPEVDJOH TPZCFBOĕCSFTXJUIMFOHUIoNNBOEĕOFOFTT oEUFYćFJSTQFDJĕDCSFBLJOHUFOTJPOJOESZJT oD/UFYBOEJOXFUoD/UFYFMPOHBUJPO BUCSFBLGSPNUPFMBTUJDSFDPWFSZEFO- TJUZHDNćFZIBWFĕOFMVTUSF

"U JODSFBTFE UFNQFSBUVSFT UIF QSPQFSUJFT PG ĕCSFT TVCTUBOUJBMMZ DIBOHF "U ¡$ UIFJS DPMPVS UVSOT UPMJHIUZFMMPXBOEBU¡UPJOUFOTFZFMMPX8JUI UIFSJTFPGUFNQFSBUVSFUIFĕCSFTCFHJOUPDBSCPO- JTFBU¡$BOECFDPNFCSPXO"TUIFTFDIBOHFT PDDVSBUSFMBUJWFMZMPXUFNQFSBUVSFTUIFĕCSFTNVTU CFUSFBUFEBOEEZFEBUUFNQFSBUVSFTCFMPX¡$

"UUIFUFNQFSBUVSFTBCPWF¡$UIFĕCSFTCFDPNF hard to the touch, however, washing in soap water BU UIF UFNQFSBUVSF IJHIFS UIBO ¡$ NBLFT UIFN TPęBHBJO

*OCPJMJOHXBUFSBOEIPUBJSUIFĕCSFTVOEFSHPDPO- USBDUJPO CZ *SPOJOH PG QSPEVDUT NBEF GSPN TPZCFBOĕCSFTJTOPUOFDFTTBSZ4PZCFBOĕCSFTIBWF good resistance to electrostatic charging which con- USJCVUFT UP IJHIFS XFBS DPNGPSU PG DMPUIJOH ćFZ IBWF IJHI 67SFTJTUBODF 4PZCFBO ĕCSFT DBO CF VTFEFTQFDJBMMZJOUIFCMFOETXJUIDBTINFSFĕCSFT TJML DPUUPO CBNCPP BOE FMBTUBOF ĕCSFT ćFZ BSF VTFEGPSQFSTPOBMVOEFSXFBSBOECFEMJOFOTIJSUT FWFOJOH ESFTTFT DIJMESFOT DMPUIJOH UPXFMT BOE TQPSUTXFBS

6.2 Feather fibres

6TJOH CJSET QMVNBHF QBSUJDVMBSMZ UIBU PG UVSLFZT BOEDIJDLFOTBMTPNFBOTTPMWJOHUIFQSPCMFNTSFMBU- FEUPCZQSPEVDUTPGGPPEJOEVTUSZXIJDIBSPTFBęFS UIF#4&PVUCSFBLXIFOQSPDFTTJOHPGCJSETQMVNBHF JOUPTUPDLGPSBHFXBTGPSCJEEFO0OMZJOUIF64"

UIFQSPEVDUJPOPGCJSETQMVNBHFBNPVOUTUPBCPVU oNJMMJPOUPOOFT'JCSFTGSPNCJSETQMVNBHF 'JH- VSFTBOEBSFSJDIJOLFSBUJOIJHIMZDSZTUBM- MJOFXJUIHPPENFDIBOJDBMBOEUIFSNBMSFTJTUBODF 5VSLFZGFBUIFSTHJWFĕOFEPXOZĕCSFTBOESPVHIĕ- CSFT%PXOZĕCSFTPSJHJOBUJOHGSPNUIFCBTBMQBSU PGBGFBUIFSRVJMMTIBęBSFBCPVUNNMPOHUIFJS ĕOFOFTT JT BCPVU EUFY TUSFOHUI BCPVU D/UFY BOE FMPOHBUJPO BU CSFBL BCPVU 3PVHI ĕCSFT PSJHJOBUFGSPNUIFVQQFSQBSUPGBGFBUIFSRVJMMTIBę BOEBSFBCPVUNNMPOHUIFJSĕOFOFTTJTBCPVU

Figure 23: A magnified fibre taken from a turkey feather

Figure 22: Turkey feather

EUFYTUSFOHUIBCPVUD/UFYBOEFMPOHBUJPOBU CSFBLBCPVU

"EEJUJPO PG NBYJNBMMZ PG UVSLFZ GFBUIFS ĕ- CSFTUPPUIFSĕCSFTJNQSPWFTIFBUJOTVMBUJPODBQBD- JUZPGUIFQSPEVDUT4PGBSUIFVTFPGUVSLFZGFBUIFS ĕCSFTIBTCFFOJOWFTUJHBUFEJOUIFCMFOETXJUIQPMZB- NJEFQPMZFTUFSBOEDFMMVMPTFĕCSFTGPSIFBUJOTVMB- UPSTBOEGPSOPOXPWFOTVTFEUPSFEVDFTPJMFSPTJPO

<>ćFQPUFOUJBMTPGGFBUIFSĕCSFTBSFBMTPJOUIF ĕFME PG BCTPSQUJPO PG IFBWZ NFUBMT EVSJOH UIF XB- UFSBOEPUIFSTZTUFNTDMFBOJOHQSPDFTT4JODFUIFBC- TPSQUJPOPGIFBWZNFUBMTEFQFOETPOQ)QSPUFJOTBT CFJOHBNQIPUFSJDTVCTUBODFTBSFIJHIMZBQQSPQSJBUF ćF DPNCJOBUJPO PG OBOPĕCSJMMBS TUSVDUVSF BOE BD- UJWFGVODUJPOBMHSPVQTJOCJSEGFBUIFSĕCSFTQSPWJEFT ideal biosorption capacities in technologically highly EFWFMPQFEĕMUFSTGPSBCTPSQUJPOPGIFBWZNFUBMT<>

1PMZFTUFSñCSFTXJUIMBUFOU FMBTUJDJUZGPSTUSFUDIQSPEVDUT

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FSUJFTXJUISFDPWFSZBęFSFMPOHBUJPOFYDFFEJOH EVSJOHBĕOJTIJOHQSPDFTT FHEZFJOHIBTDSFBUFE UIFPQQPSUVOJUZGPSOPWFMBQQMJDBUJPOTćFJSFMBTUJD- JUZBOEFMBTUJDSFDPWFSZSBOLUIFUFYUVSFENVMUJĕM- BNFOUZBSOTNBEFGSPNUIFTFĕCSFTBNPOHIJHIMZ TUSFUDIBCMFFMBTUBOFĕCSFT &-BOEMFTTTUSFUDIBCMF QPMZBNJEF 1"BOEQPMZFTUFSQPMZFUIZMFOFUFSFQI- UIBMBUF 1&41&5UFYUVSFEZBSOT

7.1 Polybuthylene terephthalate fibres (PBT)

1PMZCVUIZMFOF UFSFQIUIBMBUF 1#5 ĕCSFT BSF QPM- ZFTUFS ĕCSFT TZOUIFUJ[FE GSPN UFSFQIUIBMJD BDJE BOE CVUBOFEJPM CVUZMFOF HMZDPM 1PMZCVUIZM- FOFUFSFQIUIBMBUFXBTTZOUIFUJ[FEGPSUIFĕSTUUJNF JO"CTFODFPGMBSHFTJEFHSPVQTĘFYJCJMJUZPG TFHNFOUTCFUXFFOCFO[FOFSJOHTBOESFHVMBSJUZPG DIFNJDBMTUSVDUVSFJOUIFNBJODIBJOQSPWJEFHPPE DSZTUBMMJ[BUJPO PG NPMFDVMFT TP UIBU 1#5 JT DPO- sidered a highly crystalline substance, which sig- OJĕDBOUMZBČFDUTJUTQSPQFSUJFT$POUSBSZUPQPMZB- NJEFT 1#5 NPMFDVMFT BSF MPXQPMBS BOE BCTPSC POMZBTNBMMBNPVOUPGXBUFS-POHFSFYQPTVSFPG 1#5UPIPUXBUFSPSTUFBNMFBETUPEFQPMZNFSJ[B- UJPO PG NPMFDVMFT %VF UP IJHI DSZTUBMMJOJUZ 1#5 IBT FYDFMMFOU DIFNJDBM SFTJTUBODF UP NPTU PSHBO- JDTPMWFOUT*UJTBMTPXFBSSFTJTUBOU1#5ĕCSFTBSF wear resistant, they can be dyed at the boil without DBSSJFSTUIFJSDPMPVSGBTUOFTTJTHPPEUIFZEPOPU DIBOHFEJNFOTJPOTBOEBSFDIMPSJOFSFTJTUBOUFWFO JOXFUćFZFYDFMBUWFSZTPęUPVDINVDICFUUFS FMBTUJDJUZBOEFMBTUJDSFDPWFSZUIBO1"1BBOE 1&4 1&5&MBTUJDJUZPG1#5ZBSOEFWFMPQTEVSJOH USFBUNFOUTBUIJHIFSUFNQFSBUVSFTFHEVSJOHEZF- JOH4PNFQSPQFSUJFTPG1#5ĕCSFTBSFQSFTFOUFEJO 5BCMFTBOE

%FTQJUFIJHIQSJDFTPGSBXNBUFSJBMTBOEIJHIQSP- EVDUJPODPTUTXIJDIXFSFIJHIFSUIBOUIPTFPG1&5 ĕCSFT 1#5 ĕCSFT EVF UP UIFJS TQFDJBM QSPQFSUJFT TVQFSJPSFMBTUJDJUZXFSFTVDDFTTGVMMZVTFEGPSĘPPS DPWFSJOHTBMSFBEZJOUIFTPGUIFQSFWJPVTDFOUVSZ

*O&VSPQFUIFDPNQBOZ)PFDITUQSPEVDFEUIF1#5 TQJOOJOH NBUFSJBM #PEFO 5SFWJSB¥ GPS ZBSOT GSPN XIJDIDBSQFUTBOEDBSQFUSVOOFSTXJUIQFSGFDUFMBT- UJDSFDPWFSZXFSFNBOVGBDUVSFE

5PEBZ 1#5 NVMUJĕMBNFOU ZBSOT BSF QSPEVDFE CZ (SVQQP #POB[[J "RVBĕM 5SFWJSB &MJUF¥ ZBSO CZ /ZMTUBS&MBTUJM¥ZBSOCZ.JSPHMJP(SPVQ&MBT5FS¥

ZBSOCZ5FJKJOFUD

ćF VTF PG &MJUF¥ ZBSO JT EJWFSTF GPS VOEFSXFBS TXJNXFBS TQPSUTXFBS BOE SFDSFBUJPO XFBS *O +B-

QBO QPMZCVUIZMFOF UFSFQIUIBMBUF ĕCSFT XFSF VTFE QBSUJDVMBSMZ GPS UIF NBOVGBDUVSF PG TXJNTVJUT BOE ĕOF MBEJFT VOEFSXFBS *O UIF 64" UIF ZBSO XBT QSPEVDFEGPSTUSFUDIKFBOTBOETQPSUTXFBS/PUMPOH BHP *UBMJBO DPNQBOJFT .JSPHMJP BOE .POUFĕCSF TUBSUFEXJUIUIFQSPEVDUJPOPGBNPEJĕFE1#5NVM- UJĕMBNFOUZBSO.JSIPO8&GPSTQPSUTXFBS BOE GPS UIF CMFOET XJUI QPMZFTUFS 1&5 WJTDPTF QPMZBDSZMPOJUSJMF ĕCSFT DPUUPO ĘBY BOE XPPM *O BEEJUJPOUPIJHIFMBTUJDJUZUIF.JSIPO8&ZBSOFY- cels at good dyeability at the boil with disperse and BMTP BMLBMJOF EZFTUVČT XJUIPVU DBSSJFST BU TJOHMF CBUIEZFJOHPG1#51"/BOE1#580CMFOETBOE BU BDIJFWJOH UXPUPOF FČFDUT JO 1#51&5 CMFOET

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7.2 Elasterell-p (USA) or elastomultiester (EU) fibres

&MBTUFSFMMQJTUIFOBNFPGBOFXDMBTTPGQPMZFTUFS ĕCSFTXIJDIIBWFIJHITUSFUDIQSPQFSUJFTJODPN- NPO *O UIFZ XFSF DMBTTJĕFE CZ UIF 64 'FE- FSBM 5SBEF $PNNJTTJPO BT QPMZFTUFS ĕCSFT GPSNFE PG UXP PS NPSF DIFNJDBMMZ EJTUJODU QPMZNFST PG XIJDIOPOFFYDFFETCZXFJHIUDPOUBJOJOHFT- UFSHSPVQTBTUIFEPNJOBOUGVODUJPOBMVOJUT BUMFBTU CZXFJHIUJOUIFUPUBMQPMZNFSDPOUFOUPGĕCSF BOEXIJDIJGTUSFUDIFEGPSBUMFBTURVJDLMZSF- WFSUUPUIFJSJOJUJBMVOTUSFUDIFETIBQFBęFSUIFUFO- TJPOJTSFNPWFE<>*O &VSPQFBO6OJPOUIFTFĕ- CSFTBSFDMBTTJĕFEBTFMBTUPNVMUJFTUFSĕCSFTUIBUJTB OFXHFOFSJDOBNFGPSNFECZJOUFSBDUJPOPG

UXPPSNPSFDIFNJDBMMZEJTUJODUMJOFBSNBDSPNPM- FDVMFT JO UXP PS NPSF EJTUJODU QIBTFT PG XIJDI OPOF FYDFFET CZ NBTT XIJDI DPOUBJOT FTUFS HSPVQTBTEPNJOBOUGVODUJPOBMVOJU BUMFBTU BOEXIJDIBęFSTVJUBCMFUSFBUNFOUXIFOTUSFUDIFE UP POF BOE IBMG UJNFT JUT PSJHJOBM MFOHUI BOE SF- leased recovers rapidly and substantially to its ini- UJBMMFOHUI<>

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